Irish Mini Owners Club

Hi all!

I've very new to this site so don't know many of you but I've been a fan of mini's for ever.

My current mini is unfortunately a far cry from it's glory days! It wasn't always like that. I've owned it for about 14 years and restored it back in 2004. Anyway, I digress...

Here it is now:


Yes, it is in a sorry old state. It did have a Monsoon car cover on it for a number of years but the cats wrecked that to the point where it was useless so that was removed about two years ago.

The car is fully goodies though. I'm not so emotionally attached to it any more and think it's time to either sell as is, or sell the parts off it.

But for now (and purpose of selling) I'd like to get it fired up. The Engine is a 1380, single HIF44 carb, Med head, etc. Can anyone offer any advice or step-by-step check point in trying to start it? The engine was last started about 2+ years ago. About 18 months ago I emptied the oil out of it so first thing is to put oil in. Fuel is obviously stale - not even sure if the fuel lines are ok. I've an electric fuel pump in the boot. What is the best/simplest way to get a little bit of fresh fuel to the engine? should I empty the tank? Should I flush out the lines to the carb somehow?

Anyway, any help/guidance would be much appreciated!

Wish me luck...

Adam

Hey Adam, didn't this mini lose a front wheel on a run some years ago?

easiest way to get some fresh fuel to the carb is pour a drop directly into it, but first I'd put some fresh oil into it and the filter and with the HT lead off turn the engine over to prime the oil pump,
if their isn't much fuel left in the tank (1/4 to 1/3 full) just throw in a fresh fuel can full on top of it and it should be fine

As Macker says, just make sure you have a good strong battery or even jump it from another car as you try to start it.

I'd go a little bit further, as it has a decent engine.
Whip out the plugs, drop a couple of c.c.'s of oil into each cylinder and turn it over on the starter with the coil disconnected.
It will turn over much faster without the plugs and should get the oil around the engine faster. This also should help avoid any Bore damage just in case some moisture found it's way into the cylinders and created any rust coating.
Probably best to at least try and rock it backwards and forwards in gear 1st to get the pistons moving a bit before you try the starter.
As for fuelling we have a bottle here with a very narrow neck that we just cut the bottom off and attach to a bit of fuel pipe going to the carb. We just hold the bottle upside down above the carb and at least we are sure the car is getting petrol.

Thanks for all that guys!

I also spoke to Lloyd Hutchinson in Delgany today. He said the same thing.

So, plan is this:
Someone's lent me a battery and booster pack. First I'll try and empty the tank of stale fuel by taking the fuel line off the carb, connect up the electric pump (mounted in the boot) to the battery and pump out fuel. Clean the fuel filter, put a littel fresh fuel in the tank.

Do I then need to empty the float chamber on the carb? Hoping not as its on the bottom and didn't quite want to remove the whole carb just yet...

mgb1978 wrote:...Whip out the plugs, drop a couple of c.c.'s of oil into each cylinder and turn it over on the starter with the coil disconnected...Probably best to at least try and rock it backwards and forwards in gear 1st to get the pistons moving a bit before you try the starter.

Yep i'll try that, although The clutch m'cylinder seems seized so wont be putting it in gear!

So, next I recon I'll clean the plugs and see if I can get her going!

macker wrote:Hey Adam, didn't this mini lose a front wheel on a run some years ago?

Sure did! That's why the O.S. wing is a different colour. Tried to repair the cosmetic damage in the driveway with a rattle can...

Well, I've managed to empty the tank of the old fuel!



Just going to nip down the station and get some fresh stuff. While it was emptying, took of one of the plugs (No. 4):


Looks a bit oily! Will clean them off. check the gaps. Thats it really.

Oh, tried to get the fuel cap off. Na, not happening! Very stiff and just bending the key. it's slightly spring loaded so managed to pull it out enough to spray bit of WD40 in there. hopefully thats done something by the time I get back from getting fuel. And oil.

Adam

By the way, this was the little fella in his Hay Day:


and this is what happened when the wheel came off doing 70 on the motorway:

Did the bolts just shear off there!?

kona wrote:Did the bolts just shear off there!?

I think so. It all happened pretty quick. We were in the outside lane of the motorway doing about 70. There was a shuddering noise for about 4/5 seconds and before i had chance to react, bang! The wheel came off!
I think what happened was that I may have not tightened the bolts up before we set off. They worked loose at that moment and then pressure of the loose wheel sheared the bolts off. As opposed to the bolts failing. Who knows...

Anyways...

I've managed to get the petrol cap off (stilson wrench) and put some fresh fuel in the tank. I've pumped a bit through so I've fresh fuel up to the carb.

However. I decided to follow advice above:
I've dropped some oil into the bores
Disconnected the fuel pump and HT lead from coil to dizzy.
Connected the battery and booster pack

I turned it over for about 5 seconds to get those drops of oil moving. It turned over fine but I 'think' there was some kind of grinding/scoring noise that has me a little worried. I was going to go to the next stage and possibly try fire it up but I'm thinking not now. I may just take off the head and check the bores. You know I have to take off the carb anyway. so why not go further and take off the head to be sure?

Anyone think this is a good idea?

Adam

What sort of noise was it? I'd fire it up anyways you've nothing really to lose by doing it, if it's damaged you'll be taking it apart anyways?

kona wrote:What sort of noise was it? I'd fire it up anyways you've nothing really to lose by doing it, if it's damaged you'll be taking it apart anyways?

Too late for that now! Already started removing the carb and going ahead with removing the head.

Will keep you posted and get a couple of snaps up of it...

Ok, so managed to get the head off.

Here's the bores:






I'm not sure the pictures do it justice but they look fine. Which is all good! The oil in the dish is the bit that I put in the chambers to lubricate.

I don't want the engine 'open' any longer than I have to so tomorrow I'm gonna get the head to Lloyd in Delgany to confirm/fix the valve stem oil seals. The chambers on the bottom of the head could do with a de-coke before it goes back on too.

The noise could be water pump or alternator related.
When you get the head back on try turning it over without the fan belt. Or just take the belt off and turn them by hand to see how they feel.
I suppose you could sort out the clutch while waiting for the head. At least then you could push in the clutch while turning it over to see if this eliminates or changes the noise.

mgb1978 wrote:I suppose you could sort out the clutch while waiting for the head. At least then you could push in the clutch while turning it over to see if this eliminates or changes the noise.

Good idea. What happens with the clutch is that if a 'helper' is pressing the peddle in the car, the master cylinder is lifting up off the bulkhead crossmemeber. So two issues there. Either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder are seized right? and the other is there is only one bolt holding the master cylinder to the bulkhead! But it is that bolt that is permanently fixed to the peddle box AND a nightmare to get to.

Hmmm, what to do...

Loosen the hydraulic union at the top of the clutch M/S.
Then see if pushing the pedal just sends fluid out here and doesn't lift the M/S.
If so then you are probably looking at the Slave, if symptons stay the same then the M/S is probably seized.
As for the single bolt holding down the M/S...what happened the other, is it sheared off ?
Easiest option might be to drill out what's left and stick in a new nut and bolt.

mgb1978 wrote:Loosen the hydraulic union at the top of the clutch M/S.
Then see if pushing the pedal just sends fluid out here and doesn't lift the M/S.
If so then you are probably looking at the Slave, if symptons stay the same then the M/S is probably seized.
As for the single bolt holding down the M/S...what happened the other, is it sheared off ?
Easiest option might be to drill out what's left and stick in a new nut and bolt.

Good idea, will try that tomorrow. Thanks!

Yeah the bolt - I think (was so long ago now) that when I was restoring him and building it up the thread was not greatand while tightening a stiff nut it just sheared off. Why didn't I do anything about it then? well I had put most of the car together and it seemed to still work fine (and did for many years) with the one bolt on! I meant to fix it but never did. Looks like its come back to bite me...

Anyway, got the head back from Lloyd so gonna put the engine back together tomorrow and try fire it up!

Afraid to ask, but.......well, any news ?

Well no news yet unfortunately. I got the head back on all fine. New head gasket, new exhaust gasket and new rocker gasket.

Did all that and refilled cooling. Tried to start it but unfortunately between the battery and booster pack there just wasn't enough juice to turn the engine. Just had the starter grinding.

As the booster pack is borrowed I have to get that topped up and I can top up the battery.

Hopefully then.... Will be trying again this weekend.

PM sent....

Well Lads and lasses, I finally got it fired up!

http://youtu.be/NBkwGKUgJ3I

With one thing and another (and a baby to look after!) it's been a while since I got back to this. The guy who'd lent me the booster pack originally needed it back so that was the hold up really.

Anyway, got it back from him this week, recharged the battery he'd lent me, put the two together and presto, it fired! It fired real quick too! It always was a great engine and I'm happy to see there hasn't been any damage to it not running for so long. I forgot how beautiful this engine sounded too!

It does need a few things doing though. The top hose to the rad is perished and thus split so that was bubbling out some water. The engine won't sit and idle, it just cuts out and not sure how to expain but the low rev range is not running right. Once you go past 2.5k though she sings beautifully!

I spoke to my mechanic and he said the vacuum pipe (from servo to inlet manifold) might be leaking so need to look at that.

Once those things are done I can go back to looking at the clutch to see if I can free it up.

Very happy though!

PS: Where do you guys get all your new mini parts from here these days? In the past I always got them sent from minispares in the uk but just wondering if there were some 'home' options. Pierre Rogers used to supply parts but not sure he does anymore.

Adam

This is another vid:

http://youtu.be/ZHNGfpMTzrM

The smoke is actually comming from something burning off the manifold. Probably a bit of oil from when I did the head gasket.

Adam

well done Adam,
sounds like their is air getting in there somehow so as mentioned check the vacuum hose and also just wondering if the manifold gasket was changed when you put the head back on as air can get in here sometimes too?

Unless you've filled her up yet the old petrol in the tank could be gone off .

macker wrote:well done Adam,
sounds like their is air getting in there somehow so as mentioned check the vacuum hose and also just wondering if the manifold gasket was changed when you put the head back on as air can get in here sometimes too?

Thanks Macker! Yes the manifold gasket was replaced with the head gasket and the rocker cover cork seal thingy. However, I'm not sure how confident I am with how tight those two nuts near the middle of the inlet and exhaust manifold are. I did fit the longer brass nuts but the access is still insanely poor! I ended up using a skiny half inch spanner.

woody wrote:Unless you've filled her up yet the old petrol in the tank could be gone off .

Yeah Woody, did that too. I'm sure the old fuel was a couple of years old nearly so I took the fuel line off the carb, connected the pump in the boot to the battery and pumped all the old stuff out. a fiver of fresh fuel went in then.

Any idea's how to check this vacuum pipe for leaks??

Adam

when the car s running spray carb cleaner on all the joints on the in let 1 at a time if the car revs a small bit its sucking air and theres your problum. i think wd40 works as well but not sure .