Irish Mini Owners Club

evening all..

in the process of fitting the following to a 998cc.

* - manifolw free flow.
* - Inlet manifolf
* - rc40 dual back box exhaust.
* - K/N filter.. (i have 2 options cone or element.)

from an exhaust point of view everything went on perfect.
very well made and everything went together as it should.

now the problem:
fitted the inlet manifold, abuttment plate, spacer, carb.
but once complete it appears that the carb has been positioned closer to the bulk head making it very difficult for me to fit an air box or even an offset cone filter as it strikes the bulk head in one way or another.

my questions are..

1. Have i done something wrong when fitting... to me it appears the new inlet manifold sits further back than the original causing this problem. ( i don't want to remove the bulk head blank plate).
2. what is the purpose of the carb spacer and do i need it.
3. How do i route the fuel line from the fuel pump, (it passed uncomfortably close to the new manifold)
4. Should i wrap the new manifold to help with Question 3 above.

any help appreciated.


danny

What carb and what make of manifold are you using ?

the carb is the standard hs4

exhaust maniflod is by maniflow
inlet manifold is non branded i think. was baught as a package. will check at lunch when i get home.

if ye unbolt the top engine steady (from the engine) would you get enough forward movement on the engine to fit the filter filter?

DAVEY_C wrote:if ye unbolt the top engine steady (from the engine) would you get enough forward movement on the engine to fit the filter filter?

yea did that.. but the filter is resting onto of the bulkhead or striking the blanking plate for the bulkhead..

thinking of taking a few mm of a skim off the inlet manifold or making a spacer half the size.

anyone agree or disagree with reducing the spacer size.. i.e termal transfer issues.

Stick up a few photos first if you can. Someone might spot something obvious

If you cut the inlet manifold so that you can slide it onto the retaining studs, rather that to put it over the studs, you can fit and remove the inlet manifold/carb assembly very easily. I have twin hs2 on my 998 and have done this and it works perfectly. Any probs give me a call 086 8255228

You could also use a BFH to redefine the profile of the dividing panel to the rear of the carburettor.

The Marcos Graveyard wrote:You could also use a BFH to redefine the profile of the dividing panel to the rear of the carburettor.

that's a good solution. i recall using a thinner spacer.
as to your filter options i would favour keeping the std. airbox and fitting the K&N in that.

here is a pic of the alloy inlet to the standard.

if this a normal size differance.



don't think the BFH is an option yet. but i'll keep it in mind.

there's where your difference is.. my k&n cone is on a standard cast manifold and i even have to squeez mine past the sponge crap on the bulkhead...

i think ye need a big hammer and hit the bulkhead a few swift slaps

seriously though try it without the spacer, i think those manifolds are designed for no spacer... ye won't have any problem with heat because if you put the spacer on the standard cast mani then the'd be roughly the same height

Cut the bottom nodules off the manifold and then slide the whole build up assembly straight onto the studs, it works!! A certain melvyn Johnson gave me that tip and he knows what he's talking about, don't go re inventing the wheel !!!!

thanks for the help guys.

what are the options on wrapping the exhaust manifold to decrease temperature around the bulkhead and fuel lines.
or is this a no no.

only reason i ask is one of the branches of the manifold is about 10-15mm away from the output leg of the mechanical fuel pump and thus very close to the fule lines, which are rubber.

thinking of putting in an electric fuel pump but, have to figure out wiring and have to get blanking plate somewhere.

danny wrote:thanks for the help guys.
what are the options on wrapping the exhaust manifold to decrease temperature around the bulkhead and fuel lines.
or is this a no no.

i wrap the rubber fuel line in tinfoil.

thinking of putting in an electric fuel pump but, have to figure out wiring and have to get blanking plate somewhere

its really easy to make a blanking plate from a bit of 4mm alloy.
one question: why an electric pump?

one question: why an electric pump?

no other reason than it's easier to route the fuel lines away from the exhaust. as with the mechanical pump you have limited to how far the pump is away from the exhaust..... Am i wrong in thinking this.?

you see if it was me who was driving htis it wouldn't bother me. but the car is being used as a daily driver by my G/F and i'm in limeick and she is in galway, so i'm be a bit weary if it wasn't right.

this is the one i was thinking of

that leccy pump is fine,
don't wrap any of this heat reducing stuff around the exhaust!,
It causes heat transference to move back in towards the engine to parts that weren't designed to take it giving you bigger problems down the road,
have a word with a good engine builder/engineer to give you the exact process, Merlin (Paul Hickey of HRE engineering) would be a good man to talk to

I'm pretty sure I have a blanking plate here from when I converted an SPi to Carb.

mgb1978 wrote:I'm pretty sure I have a blanking plate here from when I converted an SPi to Carb.

if you do and your up for a swap for some currancy let me know..

I have one of those pumps with proper unions for fuel hose if you're looking for one.