Irish Mini Owners Club

Lovely brother left a little problem behind him when he went of to Oz 6 weeks ago, thanks steven dad is delighted with it

I've got limited knowledge of whats happening or what has been done etc...

The head on the engine was taken of and got skimmed before being rebuilt with new gaskets etc, I'm pretty sure dad set everything up right as well.

She starts every time on the button, sounds better than before as well, but eventually revs drop and it nearly dies.

I'm not 100% sure but I don't think dad can get the timing set right, his timing gun isnt great with the sun today.

Anyhow, it just wont rev at all, any bit of gas and it sooner dies than pic up revs.

After speaking to TMG a few weeks ago we decided to switch back from electronic to the original ignition - hasn't been done yet. Reason for changing was because it looked as if it was losing spark.

A bit vague all the above but it's about all I know. If anyone is around Cavan that can lend a helping hand it would also be appreciated

Is there oil in the dashpot?

There is but not suse how much should be in it.

Dashpot has been toped up

If it helps:

Tried a few things as suggested by tmg earlier.

Took the breather hose of the carb and blocked it - it ran longer before eventually trying to stall
Noticed air bubbles in the fuel filter and that the hose was a little lose - got a new piece of hose and tightened the clips
Dad thinks he got the timing point right now - still tries to die
Checked for fuel also which is fine
Dad mentioned that the dashpot oil is going somewhere, is this possible of is it just not full enough?

Pushing the accelerator does nothing, airfilter starts sucking air in but engine doesnt pickup

Haven't tried the normal ignition because we don't know how it should be wired and not sure which one is the right one for the engine.

Sounds like timings off to me, try manually adjusting the timing yourself by turning the distrubutor by hand, mark the position you started with them move the dizzy one way and then if that doesn't solve it or makes it worse then go the other way, you will hear if the engine sounds right, once you believe you have it right let the engine rev and make sure there is no detonation at high rpm (pinking),

We (dad) think the timing is right. He commented on turning the ignition doing very little though. Still runs fine for about 20-30sec and then starts to die again

He took the carb apart and didnt see anything unusual.

Remove the dizzy cap and suck on the vacumn tube to see if the vacumn advance is working. Sometimes if you use the wrong screw to fit the electronic modual it locks the two plates together stoping the vacumn from working.

Did you have the Dizzy out it may be out 180 degrees I only say that because of what you said about the timming light If on number one you are not seeing the flash constant on the mark I have seen this and that engine gave the same sort of trouble

when it dies after 30 secs or so.... how does it die? slow and sputtering (fuel issue. imho) , fading to nothing (timing?) or quick and clean (electrical?)

its also possible that you have more than one issue here: you timing could be out *as well as* a fuel issue.

also, will it run longer if the choke is pulled fully out?

Haven't been at it today, think dad was though. He got it running a bit more stable but he noticed it's losing it's timing?

And after speaking to Steven earlier on he thinks the elec ignition thats on it isn't the right one and there's a different one which we will try tomorrow.

Dad wired in a different electronic ignition, the right one for the engine apparently. It's turning over but not starting. He took the carb appart yest and cleaned it so between that and the timing being out we're hoping to get them setup and see will it tick over and run.

She's alive! Dad changed the ignition and got it idling nicely, took her for a spin and she didn't seem 100% hesitating under acceleration.

You'll never guess what that was down to!

time to double-check the ignition settings and fuel flow i'd think!

Your all going to laugh...

Two of the spark plug (which look brand new) weren't working. We replaced one first when we noticed it and she ran better straight away then checked the other 3 and found another to not be 100%.

Took it for a spin with the 2 plug replaced and it drives like a car should.

Dad has to check the valves and head bolts again but for now it's running spot on and probably as good as if not better than ever before with all the little things we checked, cleaned, replaced etc.

its always the little things!

Very true, if anything a lot of other little things got put right before they to could have given problems.

Just took her for a spin after putting in new plugs. She seems a little hesitant to pull at low revs, struggled a little going up a hill in 3rd. Maybe it's just how these engine work? Or could it be something thats out a little?

the MG Metro 1275 engine pulls like a train all through the rev-range... no flat-spots, hesitation, popping or coughing. its a *brilliant* engine, one of the best AR built, incorporating lots of the lessons learnt through rallying and racing over the previous two decades. Big valve head, hot cam, 44mm choke carb and free-flow intake & exhaust manifolds.. .

check all your settings again.
remember the timing is done with the vacuum pipe off the distributor *and plugged* so as not to weaken the intake mix.
the mixture adjustment on the carb is for idle only, will not affect part or full power mix.m - thats down to the needle profile
are you bringing it down to the Wicklow run on the 10th? http://www.irishminis.ie/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6562

Maybe it runs fine and I'm expecting a bit to much? It backfires the odd time but does pull if you feed the throttle.

Where would I find out what rpm the engine does at a given speed? There's not rev clock.

If I can get it insured and Steven doesn't mind me driving it I might try and make it to the run on the 10th, I have to be somewhere at 3:30 though.

Just a thought for you if you think the engine is struggling slightly, was the needle in the carb changed to suit the K&N air filter and intake manifold? If not it might be running a bit lean and it might explain the "struggling"

DaveC wrote:Just a thought for you if you think the engine is struggling slightly, was the needle in the carb changed to suit the K&N air filter and intake manifold? If not it might be running a bit lean and it might explain the "struggling"

You'd have to ask Steven that because I have no idea!

I did notice earlier it seems to struggle a little when cold, once warmed up there doesn't seem to be any hesitation - just maybe at very low revs is all. A neighbour thought maybe the dashpot was sticking a little but dad tells me he cleaned that and was smooth as could be.

Either way, were down to fine tunning now I think which is a long way from where we were a week ago

too much sun, work and other stuff has kept me nice and busy over here
good stuff lads getting it going again...

what rpm does the car idle at? and what is the timing set at?
davec - had the engine running proper before without lags and stuff, odd lag but only when engine was cold, perfect when warm.. metro engine does pull like a train, agree on that, missing it slightly........... driving a 4litre automatic over here - slow as fook!

have seen 2 minis here in perth so far - a mint pickup and a aussie clubman, so not too many around... am kinda on the lookout cause i know how to fix the cars if they break and how to service them myself but cheapest decent one iv seen advertised was like 5000 aud am making a good bit of money over here doing welding but not that much :/

plenty of old classic cars around here especially ute's (pickups) and 4x4's temptation all round but need to save so i can travel around the whole of australia, would be nice to have the estate here to do it but would cost to much to get it shipped over....

anyway, im of to the beach

It was set to idle around 850 rpm as far as I know. Not sure about the timing, does it need to be advanced a little?

Just keep it stored over here and you can drive it again when you come back from oz

Backfire usally means timing or if extremily lean detonation. I'd get it tuned sooner rather than later before any engine damage.
An Aussi Moke would be good for the beech Steve