Mini is drying out (though after a lot of swearing trying to get the footwell soundproofing out) but I need more help with the clutch issue.
Armed with my Haynes manual, a healty selection of tools and a little fear I started to try and get the clutch cover off. I eventually got all the ancilliary systems off or out of the way but I ran into two questions.
1. The 'bolt' holding the hydraulic piston to the lever, which moves the shaft in and out (cant remember the correct terms) won't come out. I got the split pin out but I can't push out the bolt. It pushes out from behind but there's not enough room to get a mallet at it. I've tried tapping it with a vice grips but it won't budge - any tips.
2.With the car jacked up and the engine supported your mean to remove the bolts tieing the engine to the subframe. As far as I can see, there are two ways of doing this. The engine appears have a sort of bushing between it and the subframe. I can either remove the nut and bolt holding the bushing to the subframe or I think I can remove two bolts holding the engine to the bushing. I think the latter is the way to go as I don't have to try and fiddle with a nut buried behind the clutch cover. Anyone have any thought's tips.
For those of you coming late, some background: car got flooded (floating), changed oil, cleaned fuel system, got engine running, drove around block.
Day or two later: engine still runs but cannot select gears with engine running.
Can select with engine off.
Pedal appears to run full travel but shaft on clutch(Verto) doesn't appear to got to the stop.
Oil is once again emulsified with water.
David
Welcome to the Irish Mini Owners Club Forum. Keep an eye out of on coming events!!!!
Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Moderators: spud1979, The Marcos Graveyard, Moderators
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
-
The Marcos Graveyard
- IMOC Paid Member
- Posts: 4718
- Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:05 am
- Whats your location?: Longford
- Region: Eastern
- What Minis have you?: 1971 Mini Marcos.
1984 Mini Sprite - Modifications: 1380cc
Weber45
S/C CR gearbox and drop gears - Location: Longford
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
In number 1, do you mean the cotter pin that is the pivot for the clutch lever ?
Number 2, the "bushing" is the engine mount, and it is far easier to remove and refit the subframe bolts rather than the bolts to the flywheel cover. I always fit them with the bolt on the inside and the nut/spring washer on the outside. It can also help if you buy a cheap 1/2" spanner and bend it specifically for the job.
Number 2, the "bushing" is the engine mount, and it is far easier to remove and refit the subframe bolts rather than the bolts to the flywheel cover. I always fit them with the bolt on the inside and the nut/spring washer on the outside. It can also help if you buy a cheap 1/2" spanner and bend it specifically for the job.
A fully carbon fiber Mini Marcos shell weighs just 7.25kg.
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Yes the cotter pin in that goes through the release lever and slave piston.
Ah-ha. See, I always try to reassemble exactly as I disassemble, so I'd would never have though of putting the nuts on the outside. I was standing there looking at those nuts and bolts going "how the hell I'm I going to get that rear nut back in place" Presumably putting the bolt in from the inside helps with lining it up aftewards (I'm guessing the subframe and engine move out of a alignment a little during the process of removing the cover.)
Bending the spanner: so that I can use that spanner to hold the inner bolt in place while reattaching the nut. Bend it at the head?
Am I likely to have to take the clutch off itself (in which case I need a clutch puller) or do you think it my just be the plunger seizing towards the end of the travel.
David
Ah-ha. See, I always try to reassemble exactly as I disassemble, so I'd would never have though of putting the nuts on the outside. I was standing there looking at those nuts and bolts going "how the hell I'm I going to get that rear nut back in place" Presumably putting the bolt in from the inside helps with lining it up aftewards (I'm guessing the subframe and engine move out of a alignment a little during the process of removing the cover.)
Bending the spanner: so that I can use that spanner to hold the inner bolt in place while reattaching the nut. Bend it at the head?
Am I likely to have to take the clutch off itself (in which case I need a clutch puller) or do you think it my just be the plunger seizing towards the end of the travel.
David
David
-
The Marcos Graveyard
- IMOC Paid Member
- Posts: 4718
- Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:05 am
- Whats your location?: Longford
- Region: Eastern
- What Minis have you?: 1971 Mini Marcos.
1984 Mini Sprite - Modifications: 1380cc
Weber45
S/C CR gearbox and drop gears - Location: Longford
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
To start the cotter pin moving, hit it a few taps in the wrong direction first, then use a flat punch/chisel/screwdriver at 90deg to the pin and force/lever it out.
Get as long a spanner as you can and bend it so that it's just easier to get it onto the head of the bolt, you will only be using it to hold the bolt steady, you'll be tightening the nit from the other side.
When you are replacing the bolts, you can use a stout philips screwdriver through the subframe holes to lever the engine mount into position.
Get as long a spanner as you can and bend it so that it's just easier to get it onto the head of the bolt, you will only be using it to hold the bolt steady, you'll be tightening the nit from the other side.
When you are replacing the bolts, you can use a stout philips screwdriver through the subframe holes to lever the engine mount into position.
A fully carbon fiber Mini Marcos shell weighs just 7.25kg.
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Thanks for that. I wasn't sure how much rapping and banging I could do to the cotter pin.
Cheapie spanner and fingers crossed it is then.
Now, if only the weather would oblige!
David
Cheapie spanner and fingers crossed it is then.
Now, if only the weather would oblige!
David
David
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
David,
Hang on there a moment, you seem to be doing a lot just to clear the water from the clutch plate, there is a much simpler and easier method to do it.
Firstly there is a inspection cap on the front of the flywheel housing, 2 1/4" bolts, take that off, on the base of the flywheel housing (ie underneath) there is a small hole usually with a cotter pin sitting loosley in it. Make sure this is free and clear.
Go down to the motor factors and buy a bottle of methalated sprits and a can of brake cleaner.
Turn on the car so that the motor is spinning, now slowly pour the methalated sprits into the inspection hole, the sprits will disperse the water in the clutch system, get someone to depress the clutch a couple of times to ensure the whole surface is covered.
The residule sprits will drain out the hole in the bottom and the rest will evaporate.
This will solve the water prob, if there is oil present use the brake cleaner in the same fashion, however the only way oil gets in is through the rear main seal and unfortunatley this will only be a tempopary fix for that prob.
This was a common problem with us racing especially before sintered clutches, I'm surprised though that the engine heat hasn't cured it already.
Hope this helps.
Andrew
Hang on there a moment, you seem to be doing a lot just to clear the water from the clutch plate, there is a much simpler and easier method to do it.
Firstly there is a inspection cap on the front of the flywheel housing, 2 1/4" bolts, take that off, on the base of the flywheel housing (ie underneath) there is a small hole usually with a cotter pin sitting loosley in it. Make sure this is free and clear.
Go down to the motor factors and buy a bottle of methalated sprits and a can of brake cleaner.
Turn on the car so that the motor is spinning, now slowly pour the methalated sprits into the inspection hole, the sprits will disperse the water in the clutch system, get someone to depress the clutch a couple of times to ensure the whole surface is covered.
The residule sprits will drain out the hole in the bottom and the rest will evaporate.
This will solve the water prob, if there is oil present use the brake cleaner in the same fashion, however the only way oil gets in is through the rear main seal and unfortunatley this will only be a tempopary fix for that prob.
This was a common problem with us racing especially before sintered clutches, I'm surprised though that the engine heat hasn't cured it already.
Hope this helps.
Andrew
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Hi Andrew,
That's a thought however, I don't know that the issue is water in th clutch and the other is that I can't actually select a gear while the engine is running.
How to you suppose that water in the clutch might be causing the symptoms (can change gear with engine off, can't with engine running). I'm not saying your wrong, just trying to understand what may be going wrong before trying some remedial action.
What's the difference between what's happening in the engine/gearbox/cluctch when the you select a gear with the engine off and when you select a gear with the engine running.?
Clearly, if you're right, it's a much easier solution.
David
That's a thought however, I don't know that the issue is water in th clutch and the other is that I can't actually select a gear while the engine is running.
How to you suppose that water in the clutch might be causing the symptoms (can change gear with engine off, can't with engine running). I'm not saying your wrong, just trying to understand what may be going wrong before trying some remedial action.
What's the difference between what's happening in the engine/gearbox/cluctch when the you select a gear with the engine off and when you select a gear with the engine running.?
Clearly, if you're right, it's a much easier solution.
David
David
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
David,
Sorry my fault as I didn't read your thread properly, I thought you were talking about a slipping clutch due to water being on the friction surface, I have now reread your thread and it is not the case my appoligies.
You say there is water in the oil after a oil change had been undertaken, how deep was the car submerged???? the only way of water getting into the system is through the two oil breathers; one ontop of the flywheel housing the other on the timing cover especially the one one the flywheel housing. If you have got water in there then you have a real major on your hands and unfortunatley all I can suggest is a complete engine overhall as the water in an engine oil system causes signaficant damage.
If this is the case then you may as well stop now and seek profesional help.
If this is not the case and only a small amount of moisture is visable then again use a water dispersing agent like methalated sprits to remove this water. Pour a small amount in with the oil and warm the engine (do not drive it) drain and refill with oil.
If the pedal is working but the clutch arm is not moving to it desired position then check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder, secondly bleed the system, thirdly adjust the clutch throw and stop position. Haynes manual will show you how to do this.
There is nothing inside the housing that will prevent the clutch from engaging especially on a road car.
If you are still intent on taking off the flywheel housing cover then place a jack under the engine sump (place a piece of timber on first to spread the load) undo the engine support, 2 1/4" bolts accessable through the wheel arch, undo the clutch slave cylinder 2 9/16" bolts, undo all the 1/2" bolts around the cover, gently with a malet tap the cover off. This will expose the daiphram and flywheel componets. You will not be able to get to the clutch plate without removing the flywheel which requires a special tool.
Hope this helps.
Sorry my fault as I didn't read your thread properly, I thought you were talking about a slipping clutch due to water being on the friction surface, I have now reread your thread and it is not the case my appoligies.
You say there is water in the oil after a oil change had been undertaken, how deep was the car submerged???? the only way of water getting into the system is through the two oil breathers; one ontop of the flywheel housing the other on the timing cover especially the one one the flywheel housing. If you have got water in there then you have a real major on your hands and unfortunatley all I can suggest is a complete engine overhall as the water in an engine oil system causes signaficant damage.
If this is the case then you may as well stop now and seek profesional help.
If this is not the case and only a small amount of moisture is visable then again use a water dispersing agent like methalated sprits to remove this water. Pour a small amount in with the oil and warm the engine (do not drive it) drain and refill with oil.
If the pedal is working but the clutch arm is not moving to it desired position then check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder, secondly bleed the system, thirdly adjust the clutch throw and stop position. Haynes manual will show you how to do this.
There is nothing inside the housing that will prevent the clutch from engaging especially on a road car.
If you are still intent on taking off the flywheel housing cover then place a jack under the engine sump (place a piece of timber on first to spread the load) undo the engine support, 2 1/4" bolts accessable through the wheel arch, undo the clutch slave cylinder 2 9/16" bolts, undo all the 1/2" bolts around the cover, gently with a malet tap the cover off. This will expose the daiphram and flywheel componets. You will not be able to get to the clutch plate without removing the flywheel which requires a special tool.
Hope this helps.
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Deeply; but exactly how deeply has been hard to ascertain - certainly a good deal up into the engine bay. However, a day or two after drying out the inside with a dehumidifier, and 5 mins drying the dizzy, she started. She the died 5 or 10 minutes after drawing in water from the fuel system.
During the floods the car was parked nose down on a reasonable slope and there is a real possibility that water came in through the exhaust system (especially given how much she coughed out when I started her). I would have thought also that water could easily have seeped in through the dipstick opening since there's no sealing there.
I'm not sure where the breather pipe is (don't have the car or manual here). I'll have to check that when I get home. Anyway of checking whether I've gotten water in there (flywheel housing)
David
During the floods the car was parked nose down on a reasonable slope and there is a real possibility that water came in through the exhaust system (especially given how much she coughed out when I started her). I would have thought also that water could easily have seeped in through the dipstick opening since there's no sealing there.
I'm not sure where the breather pipe is (don't have the car or manual here). I'll have to check that when I get home. Anyway of checking whether I've gotten water in there (flywheel housing)
David
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
David,
Taking your count on the level of water I would say its a rebuild on the cards, for water to enter through the exhaust it would have to be higher than the engine itself ie above the intake level, rocker cover level, however if this had happened you would have hydrauliced the engine the moment you started it as water would have been sitting in the pistons. As you were able to start it this can not be the entry point so it must have got through in other areas maybe as you suggest the dipstick. Either way water in the oil is a bad thing and not something to be taken lightly.
This could be an insurance claim on the basis of an act of god in which your car was flooded.
Have you any photos???
You have already proved that there is water in the oil when you drained it so therefore it really doesn't matter where it got in it just there.
It still doesn't solve the puzzle on the clutch or lack of gears when running, the only thing that would prevent this would be if the diaphram is not being depressed far enough to disengauge drive to the box.
The only system that prevents this is the clutch slave cylinder or master cylinder not working properly, (if the clutch arm is set right) I don't know how but water may have got into this system which is preventing the clutch fluid from working properly, maybe bleed this system, flush with meths and refill with fluid.
But before you go and do anything further first check out the water in the oil because there is no point in going any further if the engine needs rebuilding.
Sorry,
Andrew
Taking your count on the level of water I would say its a rebuild on the cards, for water to enter through the exhaust it would have to be higher than the engine itself ie above the intake level, rocker cover level, however if this had happened you would have hydrauliced the engine the moment you started it as water would have been sitting in the pistons. As you were able to start it this can not be the entry point so it must have got through in other areas maybe as you suggest the dipstick. Either way water in the oil is a bad thing and not something to be taken lightly.
This could be an insurance claim on the basis of an act of god in which your car was flooded.
Have you any photos???
You have already proved that there is water in the oil when you drained it so therefore it really doesn't matter where it got in it just there.
It still doesn't solve the puzzle on the clutch or lack of gears when running, the only thing that would prevent this would be if the diaphram is not being depressed far enough to disengauge drive to the box.
The only system that prevents this is the clutch slave cylinder or master cylinder not working properly, (if the clutch arm is set right) I don't know how but water may have got into this system which is preventing the clutch fluid from working properly, maybe bleed this system, flush with meths and refill with fluid.
But before you go and do anything further first check out the water in the oil because there is no point in going any further if the engine needs rebuilding.
Sorry,
Andrew
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
"This could be an insurance claim on the basis of an act of god in which your car was flooded."
She'e been off the road since a tip last year so she's only covered third party.
The question then is - what do I do about the water in the oil situation?
The Universe really could cut me some slack right now.
David
She'e been off the road since a tip last year so she's only covered third party.
The question then is - what do I do about the water in the oil situation?
The Universe really could cut me some slack right now.
David
David
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
David,
Unfortunatley there is only one real way of getting water out of the oil and that is strip the engine down and rebuild it, the cleaning process when rebuilding the engine will get rid of the water. I really don't know of any other sure fire way of removing the water from the oil cause the water even a little will keep emulsifing the oil. Also because the gearbox is the sump on a mini all the water will collect in the box will cause damage to this as well.
Before you strip the engine get a second opinion from a mechanic or mini specialist.
Bummer about the insurance!!!! What year is the car and why was it off the road.
Andrew
Unfortunatley there is only one real way of getting water out of the oil and that is strip the engine down and rebuild it, the cleaning process when rebuilding the engine will get rid of the water. I really don't know of any other sure fire way of removing the water from the oil cause the water even a little will keep emulsifing the oil. Also because the gearbox is the sump on a mini all the water will collect in the box will cause damage to this as well.
Before you strip the engine get a second opinion from a mechanic or mini specialist.
Bummer about the insurance!!!! What year is the car and why was it off the road.
Andrew
-
mustard
- NON Member
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:11 pm
- What Minis have you?: 97 rover cooper sportspack, a bloody metro and MY 61 mini van
- Location: athboy, co. meath
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
when we are cleaning an engine out after a head gasket blew or something along those lines, we would put a mix of oil and petrol through the engine, run it for 20 mins and then do it again maybe 3 or 4 times.
but i havnt done it in a mini engine, would it damage the gearbox in some way, mabe maybe not!!!
but i havnt done it in a mini engine, would it damage the gearbox in some way, mabe maybe not!!!
If ya can't fix it with a hammer, its an electrical problem!
J & A Commercials and Auto Repairs ltd.
From Minis to Trucks, everything and anything
Clondalkin Dublin 22
Contact Mick: 0868526492 or 014578687
J & A Commercials and Auto Repairs ltd.
From Minis to Trucks, everything and anything
Clondalkin Dublin 22
Contact Mick: 0868526492 or 014578687
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Glennon,
Sounds like an idea but as you say I'm not sure about the gearbox, I would say you would still end up with the petrol mix sitting in the gears after draining and it may cause premature wear and tear on the bearings etc. Also petrol/oil still don't mix with water, what is the idea in using that. I would have used meths and oil as the meths will absorb water.
Andrew
Sounds like an idea but as you say I'm not sure about the gearbox, I would say you would still end up with the petrol mix sitting in the gears after draining and it may cause premature wear and tear on the bearings etc. Also petrol/oil still don't mix with water, what is the idea in using that. I would have used meths and oil as the meths will absorb water.
Andrew
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Hi Andrew,
She's an '89 cherry Mini Thirty.
I got a smack late last year from a truck. While the damage to the wing was substantial the car drove okay. In the interest of public safety (lots of sharp edges) I didn't take it out for a couple of months, then I was unemployed for 5 months and since then I haven't had the money to have her seen to because Me and She have been trying to chase a builder who's basically made off with 10's of thousands of Her Dad's inheritance to Her.
The flooding is basically just the latest in a line of stinky poo.
She was such a tidy little car too. Little more than a year ago it was one of the nicest Thirty's around, now the engine's facing a rebuild, the wing is just as mangled and the rust is beginning to spread.
It's all a bit much really.
David
She's an '89 cherry Mini Thirty.
I got a smack late last year from a truck. While the damage to the wing was substantial the car drove okay. In the interest of public safety (lots of sharp edges) I didn't take it out for a couple of months, then I was unemployed for 5 months and since then I haven't had the money to have her seen to because Me and She have been trying to chase a builder who's basically made off with 10's of thousands of Her Dad's inheritance to Her.
The flooding is basically just the latest in a line of stinky poo.
She was such a tidy little car too. Little more than a year ago it was one of the nicest Thirty's around, now the engine's facing a rebuild, the wing is just as mangled and the rust is beginning to spread.
It's all a bit much really.
David
David
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
David,
Thats a real bummer, its a shame to see the car going to waste, the wing shouldn't be too bad as you can get replacement panels for them, so long as the innner gaurd hasn't been moved it should be just a process of cuting the old one off and weld the new one on and a bit of filler and paint.
The engine isn't a major either and can be done quite cheaply if there is nothing internally wrong, its just a case of stripping and rebuilding, you can have the engine apart in a day, clean the next and then assemble the following day or so, thats if you are prepared to do it yourself, they are not difficult to do it just like working on a big lawn mower.
Where are you based, as I could possibly lend a hand to get it going again.
Andrew
Thats a real bummer, its a shame to see the car going to waste, the wing shouldn't be too bad as you can get replacement panels for them, so long as the innner gaurd hasn't been moved it should be just a process of cuting the old one off and weld the new one on and a bit of filler and paint.
The engine isn't a major either and can be done quite cheaply if there is nothing internally wrong, its just a case of stripping and rebuilding, you can have the engine apart in a day, clean the next and then assemble the following day or so, thats if you are prepared to do it yourself, they are not difficult to do it just like working on a big lawn mower.
Where are you based, as I could possibly lend a hand to get it going again.
Andrew
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Hi Andrew,
I'm based in Cabra. I'm not really set up though for reefing out an engine, though it would be good to do it.
David
I'm based in Cabra. I'm not really set up though for reefing out an engine, though it would be good to do it.
David
David
-
just_st3v3n
- NON Member
- Posts: 785
- Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 11:22 am
- Whats your location?: cavan
- Region: Northern
- What Minis have you?: 1989 red mayfair aka project nancy
- Modifications: Nancy is deseamed and will be getting some sort of modern engine someday
- Location: cavan
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
lads check out the events section for my post ....
il be up for giving a hand any weekend as i work monday till friday , odd half day saturday... be well interesting, took as far as the cylinder head off but wanna see the rest too... one my mates be well up for givin hand too... cleaning or whatever or just liftin it out and observing
let me know...
steven
il be up for giving a hand any weekend as i work monday till friday , odd half day saturday... be well interesting, took as far as the cylinder head off but wanna see the rest too... one my mates be well up for givin hand too... cleaning or whatever or just liftin it out and observing
let me know...
steven
-
Mini Ha Ha
- IMOC Paid Member
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:57 pm
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Hi
I would not lightly undertake stripping the engine because of the water. I have played with vintage cars for years where the oil and water mixed to give an emulsion in the engine.
There are 2 issues
1 The water can cause rust
2 The presence of the water reduces the lubrication properties of the oil. Thus it is not a good idea to drive the car far or hard when the oil is milky coloured.
What I always did when this happened was
drain oil
Empty filter and refit
Get a few gallons of non gritty, ie clean, USED engine oil from my friendly garage, this is cheaper than buying lots of gallons at the full price
Refill engine and run until hot.
Drain oil and filter and repeat as often as needed until emulsion does not reoccur.
Drain and refill with new oil and a new filter
As regards your clutch problem there are two possibilities
A. we had this happen to us with the MPI which was left unused in the garage over the summer. When we restarted it we could not press the clutch pedal to the floor, the clutch would not disengage, and we could not select gears. The cause was the long operating arm had seized where it pivots at the bottom, and we could not free it. This can happen if you do not put oil down there regularly to keep it lubricated. I have never seen this mentioned in a service list by the way.
The cure in this case was a trip to LLoyd Hutchenson who freed it out in a way that we did not want to know.
B The other problem that arises is where the clutch pedal presses to the floor, feeling spring resistance as usual, so that all seems to be in order. However in spite of this you still cannot select gears. This is usually caused by the disc sticking to the pressure plate. I have not come across this with a mini, but quite regularly with other makes. The usual cure for this is to start the car in gear in a safe long straight empty road, keep the clutch pedal pressed to the floor and kangaroo it up the road by pressing and releasing the accelerator sharply, whereon usually and with any luck the clutch frees. I would dismantle it only if this does not work.
Good luck, and sorry for what happened to the Mini
I would not lightly undertake stripping the engine because of the water. I have played with vintage cars for years where the oil and water mixed to give an emulsion in the engine.
There are 2 issues
1 The water can cause rust
2 The presence of the water reduces the lubrication properties of the oil. Thus it is not a good idea to drive the car far or hard when the oil is milky coloured.
What I always did when this happened was
drain oil
Empty filter and refit
Get a few gallons of non gritty, ie clean, USED engine oil from my friendly garage, this is cheaper than buying lots of gallons at the full price
Refill engine and run until hot.
Drain oil and filter and repeat as often as needed until emulsion does not reoccur.
Drain and refill with new oil and a new filter
As regards your clutch problem there are two possibilities
A. we had this happen to us with the MPI which was left unused in the garage over the summer. When we restarted it we could not press the clutch pedal to the floor, the clutch would not disengage, and we could not select gears. The cause was the long operating arm had seized where it pivots at the bottom, and we could not free it. This can happen if you do not put oil down there regularly to keep it lubricated. I have never seen this mentioned in a service list by the way.
The cure in this case was a trip to LLoyd Hutchenson who freed it out in a way that we did not want to know.
B The other problem that arises is where the clutch pedal presses to the floor, feeling spring resistance as usual, so that all seems to be in order. However in spite of this you still cannot select gears. This is usually caused by the disc sticking to the pressure plate. I have not come across this with a mini, but quite regularly with other makes. The usual cure for this is to start the car in gear in a safe long straight empty road, keep the clutch pedal pressed to the floor and kangaroo it up the road by pressing and releasing the accelerator sharply, whereon usually and with any luck the clutch frees. I would dismantle it only if this does not work.
Good luck, and sorry for what happened to the Mini
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
All due respect (and admiration) to GTM, I'm not giving up on the simple, (but multiple), flushing route just yet.
I had actually just picked up some engine flush, more oil and another filter today.
Mini Ha Ha, suggestion 2 in relation to freeing the clutch is the second time today I've received the same suggestion - the other source is my my normal Mini Oracle.
.... on the topic of the the Universe cutting me some slack - the less flooded 98 Skoda Felicia just passed the NCT this evening. It's needed a new clutch since She bought it to learn on 4 years ago and has been a great little workhorse. No Skoda jokes in this house.
Davod
I had actually just picked up some engine flush, more oil and another filter today.
Mini Ha Ha, suggestion 2 in relation to freeing the clutch is the second time today I've received the same suggestion - the other source is my my normal Mini Oracle.
.... on the topic of the the Universe cutting me some slack - the less flooded 98 Skoda Felicia just passed the NCT this evening. It's needed a new clutch since She bought it to learn on 4 years ago and has been a great little workhorse. No Skoda jokes in this house.
Davod
David
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Just popped back to say thanks.
I haven't had time to do much with Mini until last weekend. Tried to start her but not a peep. Put her in gear, rocked her back and forth to unseize the starter. Little peep. Tried rocking her some more and starting her while popping the clutch. Clatter, clatter vroom.
So clutch is now unseized (without removeal) and I've flushed the engine. I'll probably have to do that a few times yet.
Thanks for your help.
David
I haven't had time to do much with Mini until last weekend. Tried to start her but not a peep. Put her in gear, rocked her back and forth to unseize the starter. Little peep. Tried rocking her some more and starting her while popping the clutch. Clatter, clatter vroom.
So clutch is now unseized (without removeal) and I've flushed the engine. I'll probably have to do that a few times yet.
Thanks for your help.
David
David
-
The Marcos Graveyard
- IMOC Paid Member
- Posts: 4718
- Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:05 am
- Whats your location?: Longford
- Region: Eastern
- What Minis have you?: 1971 Mini Marcos.
1984 Mini Sprite - Modifications: 1380cc
Weber45
S/C CR gearbox and drop gears - Location: Longford
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Good man David, don't be a stranger now.
A fully carbon fiber Mini Marcos shell weighs just 7.25kg.
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Next up is to get the money together to get the tipper-lorry inflicted panel work sorted.
Just sitting in mini running her has reminded me how much I miss driving her. By the time she's sorted I'll be able to go to Carole Nash for insurance !!
David
Just sitting in mini running her has reminded me how much I miss driving her. By the time she's sorted I'll be able to go to Carole Nash for insurance !!
David
David
-
Mini Ha Ha
- IMOC Paid Member
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:57 pm
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Really glad that you got sorted out. Roll on Carole Nash
-
ClearOfCloud
- NON Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 11:26 am
- Location: Dublin
- Contact:
Re: Clutch Problem -after flooding [from Floods thread]
Would you believe this is still going on. I've turn her over a few times just to make sure she hadn't seized but things had been tight so I couldn't get her back on the road. Well, it looks like I have a new job and things are picking up so I taxed her today so I could start thinking about getting it back on the road.
Today she won't turn over. The battery's not in great condition so I hooked it up to the skoda and tried starting in but nada, though you can here the current draw on Skoda's revs. You do here a big click when you turn the key but that's as far as it goes. I've tried shunting her in gear a little (hard work) to see if that would do anything. No joy.
Any thoughts?
Today she won't turn over. The battery's not in great condition so I hooked it up to the skoda and tried starting in but nada, though you can here the current draw on Skoda's revs. You do here a big click when you turn the key but that's as far as it goes. I've tried shunting her in gear a little (hard work) to see if that would do anything. No joy.
Any thoughts?
David
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest
