Irish Mini Owners Club

Hi,

I am trying to start a 1973 car that has sat in a shed for about 7/8 years

I have drained old fuel and put in 5l of fresh petrol.

I hooked up a battery and lights work, but nothing happens when I turn the key except the alternator sparks so I unplugged it.

I think, in my very limited experience, that there may be a problem with the earth straps. I have a new set on order.

I also think the starter may be stuck, have tried rocking car in gear.

Any suggestions? Try a push start?? Use jump leads direct to starter?

Thanks.

Did the altenator spark when you turned the key to the ignition position or the start (spring) porition.
Did you get any dashboard lights with the ignition on?
Did the motor crank over in the start position?

Hi, not sure on alternator. Will check later.
Yes, dashboard lights came on with the ignition on.
Motor did not crank to the start position.

My, cheap and nasty Lidl, battery tester tells me my battery is in decent condition.

Thanks.

Most likely the solenoid , with the key in the start position try tapping it. You should hear it clicking on and off

Thanks very much, will give it a try.

Tried the above this evening, heard no clicking. I forgot to check dashboard lights, but headlights and interior light were on. I will stick the battery on a trickle charge just to be sure it has enough juice.

I re-connected the alternator, and no sparks today.

If the solinoid is knackered you can short the terminals with a big spanner (expect a big spark) and the motor should turn.

Thanks, have the battery out charging. Could I stick jump lead from positive direct to solenoid, and ground other jump lead to engine block? Would that have the same effect? Thanks for all your help.

Even easier. Just cross the two positive & negative on the solenoid itself with a screwdriver.

I usually fit a push button solenoid to my minis.

Great thanks guys. Will update ye on how I get on.

Hi, didn't get the mini started, but am delighted I did get it cranking. Will hopefully get time to have a go again tomorrow.

Thanks.

Update.

Replaced the faulty solenoid today. Car still cranking but not starting. Didn't even get to check spark, noticed clutch is really stuck. Engine bay is quite rusty in general.

Any advice on freeing clutch?

Should I throw in new spark plugs, leads and condenser and points? Already put in a new rotor arm.

Re clutch: once you've got car running, turn off engine then put it into first. Keep your foot on the clutch. Turn on ignition. The car will jump forward but keep that foot on the clutch. Usually the clutch will free after a bit. Don't attempt any of this without working brakes and plenty of outdoor space.

Thanks so much for the advice. I am crippled with a lack of knowledge and talent! Next time I get to car I'll check for a good spark. After that I presume I'll check for petrol getting to the carb.

Thanks Guys.

Today I checked for spark, go no spark at all. Took off cap and leads and cleaned cap and checked leads for cracks etc. points seemed a little corroded, gave them a quick clean in situ and put all back together.

After this I got a weak spark on all leads. Cranked over a good few times and got a weak cough trying to start once or twice.

What should I try next?

Thanks.

If you got a cough your nearly there( or its got the virus ) . put fresh petrol in the carb float chamber and make sure theres oil in the dashpot. Then you say the clutch is locked do you mean the arm won't move at all?

Hi, Clutch pedal is stuck, and in the arm is stuck also, no movement. Ye, hopefully nearly there. Will try the oil and petrol. Do I need a specific dashpot oil? Was using easy start today instead of petrol in the carb, is that ok or is petrol better?

Thanks.

You'll probably find that easy start is giving you the cough but petrol is too old to keep it running. Unleaded petrol loses a lot of its octane rating after a year lying in the tank.
To check if the clutch slave cylinder is seized remove the dust cover and push back the piston with a narrow screwdriver, if it moves than press the pedal again to bring it back out.If it is seized remove it to see if the clutch arm moves freely. If it doesn't move you can try penetrating oil but personally I would remove the wok and dismantle and clean everything.

Update.

Thanks to advice from here got car started today. Added a bit of oil to dashpot and petrol to carb and after a while got it going. Lots of crappy smoke, never made me so happy!

Clutch still stuck, used screw driver to moved it slightly, and tried starting in first and second to no avail. Didn't have time to do much more today. Will remove spring and check movement next time I get to look at it.

I just want to say thanks to the support from here, car wouldn't be started at all without the help here.

Glad to help. The starting the car in gear is only for when the arm is moving but the plate is stuck to the flywheel. Get the arm moving freely first.

Forgot to mention that when the car is off I can put it in gear. However when I started it it would not go into gear.

That's because the clutch isn't working.

Clutch slave was seized alright. New one ordered.

Quick update. Am still waiting on new clutch slave. Got a few minutes today and removed the operating lever. When I took it out I was able to rotate the throw-out stop fully and to move it in and out. However when I cleaned and re-installed the operating lever it hardly moves?? Is this normal?

Thanks.

The clutch shaft does not move a lot during normal operation and its movement is limited by the throw out stop and the return stop. Removing the clutch lever arm removed the return stop.