1275 upgrade

[Joe_flanagan]

Hi,

So my 998 engine decided to give up on me a few weeks ago and I am looking to use the opportunity to upgrade to a 1275. I got a 1275 there a few days ago and will be looking to put it in the car this weekend. I read a previous thread saying the Haynes manual is loads of help so hopefully that will help with most of my questions. I was mainly just wondering is there anything different that I will need for switching over to the 1275 or is it a matter of just whipping the old one out and bolting the new one in. I know a better carb is required to get the proper power out of it but just in terms of putting it in and getting it running is there anything specific I will need like engine mounts etc.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Joe

[woody]

If the 1275 is out of a mini and not a Metro its a straight swap once it has a rod change gearbox with pot joints.You will have to change the needle in the carb, the 1275GT used a HS4 carb like yours and the various needles are listed in the Haynes manual. Use the Distributor that came with the engine and check that the coil is suitable, I would think the 1275 dizzy will be electronic and will need a coil to match. You may also need to check between ballast and non ballast system and change some wiring. Depending on the engine spec you may need to improve the rad cooling.

[Joe_flanagan]

Yea its out of a mini anyway. I'll have to check about the rod change gearbox but i think so. I just actually got a new radiator there before the 998 went so cooling should be fine. Do I have to use the distributor from the new engine or is it ok to use the one from the 998 as the one on the new engine isn't in good condition at all. I think the engine is a high compression one but wouldn't mind knowing the spec of it. Do you know if the engine codes are listed with the spec somewhere online. The engine number is 12HA83AA 101408.

Cheers

[keith]

that engine number is coming up as Metro, hi compression 10.5:1 (12HA83AA 10.5 : 1 1985/1986 High compression) - possibly an MG unit.

use its distributor, the 998 distro will be wrong.

http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/to ... -12ha83aa/
https://classicmini.wordpress.com/2007/ ... e-numbers/
http://members.home.nl/mmarx/mini/metronmbrs.htm

thats one sweeeeeet engine.

[Joe_flanagan]

Do the Metro engines not typically have double valve springs cause this one doesn't. Class to know its a good engine though. I ll try figure out about with the distributor but if it doesn't work will I have to get a new one yea? Thanks man.

[keith]

AFAIK only the copper 'S' and MG 1300GT had double valve springs.
Whats wrong with the distributor? Might be possible to get it re-built. the weights, springs & vacuum control the advance curve, specific to each type of engine. eg. the distro for a Metro 1.3 HLE would be quite different from the MG Metro

[Joe_flanagan]

Yea its not gonna be possible to get it rebuilt when was taking it out engine tired over on its side and snapped the top piece of it so its useless like. Using the engine code should would i be able to find the distributor to match it or is that going to be a pain?

[Joe_flanagan]

Would this distributor not work with no?? http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 825MS.aspx

[keith]

Yes, that one would be grand. Having had both minis with std & electronic points I recommend the electronic ones. So the "MS" version then.

[Joe_flanagan]

Yea I had heard the electronic ones work better alright and that they give a bit more power or sumtin. I was looking up what needle to get for my HS4 carb to upgrade it for the 1275 engine and the Haynes manual is saying it is a AAT needle for the cooper 1275 but online people seem to recommend an AAM needle for the MG metro hi compression engine to get better performance. I know there is so many different factors when taking this into account and a rolling road test is the only real way to get an idea if your getting the right power from it but if I was to give the carb a very good clean and put an AAM needle would you recon that would give me good power or is it worth getting it professionally tuned? Like as long as I ament running the mixture too lean or rich it won't do any damage right? Or will it be really lacking in performance d if not set right??

Thanks a million for the help by the way man. Greatly appreciated.

[woody]

The proper carb for the MG Metro is a HIF44 with a BDL needle but if you want to keep cost down for the moment look at the 1275GT that was fitted with a HS4 same as what you have with the AAT as standard.You should be able to pick up a 65DM4 distributor for parts and repair your own .Once you have all standard parts working properly any good mechanic should be able to set the mixture for you quite easily. Too rich or too lean can ruin a good engine quickly .
Stick up a picture of your broken dizzy.

[Joe_flanagan]

I was just speaking with Woody with regards to the above. The main part I am still unsure about getting is the distributor and said I would see what others opinions are on this. Woody gave very good advice and said that the 65DM4 (42664E) dizzy was fitted to the Mg Metros from 1985 on. From what I can see from the engine information it is a 1985/86 Mg Metro engine as was said already so that should be the right dizzy. I will most likely go with this one as it is the one that is designed for the engine but I was just wondering what is the advantage of these high energy/higher performance dizzy's that the likes of minispares and powerspark are selling like these ones:

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... H7701.aspx
http://www.simonbbc.com/bundle_deals/hi ... 1536_42664.

Like is it possible to get more power out of using performance dizzy's like this and do they match the distributor curves better as they have advanced over the years? The guy in minispares suggested the above one making this point but he obviously wants to make a sale aswel so I would appreciate what ye guys opinion on it.

Cheers,
Joe

[keith]

Imho if the spare dizzy is in good shape and is correct for the engine, use it.

High Performance ignition only really starts being useful for modded or competition engines.

[The Marcos Graveyard]

If you are retaining the standard engine (cam/head/carb/manifold) then there is no need for any change from the standard dizzy.
Unless you are going to mod the engine you won't need anything more than the standard dizzy is going to give you.
Only map-able ignition and a rolling road will give you precise timing curves to suit your engine, everything else will be close in spots off in others but acceptable overall.

[Joe_flanagan]

Yea see I do plan on doing some degree of mods over the next while mainly with regards to the carb and already have stage 1 exhaust. I also don't actually know to what degree the engine has been modified inside as I haven't completely striped it down. The head seems to be the standard one from what I can tell but there were split-pin Webber carbs on the engine before it was taken out and the guy who sold it seemed to think that there could be some mods made to the cam but I ament sure.

[woody]

Was looking into dizzys and came accross this video which may help you understand what goes on inside the dizzy with vacumn ,centrifugal and the combination of both and why not all dizzys are the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGMRLCYz8Ds
The new 123 dizzy can be tuned from your phone via bluetooth.