Irish Mini Owners Club

I have two widebands fitted in the exhausts, one in the centre branch and the other in the outer branch. I had issues wiring them in, they had to be hardwired in and I had one working and another not , judging by the readings that Ive gotten, they either are not in right, or the position is an issue.
Ive been very busy since I installed it and have barely even had a proper look at it, the car has been driven VERY rarely the last year or two. Ive the whole thing written out and a spec list put together. Ive been poking around at it the last few weeks, sorting out bits n bobs.

How did you find the base map? you just adjusted the values in the tables using the widebands as a refrence? what size injectors are you using?

The base map will only get you started.

I have tried a few injectors along the way. At the moment I have 500cc injectors in it.
It all depends on your specific engine like cam timing and type cylinder head mods and engine size and how far the injectors are away from the inlet valves etc.
The way I went about it was adjust the fueling so that the average of outer and inner is about 13.5 afr. Then adjust the injection timing until they are both the same.
Also only adjust injection timing when engine is warm ie hotter then 70degrees c.
I started with idle and revving the engine in neutral. Then drove it at each load site and adjusted each one while driving. Don't let the coppers know that one lol.
My map now is miles away from the base map.

I based my tb and injector sizes on figures I worked out on paper, ie a 1380 with a 286 cam, tbh it's so long I can't rem exactly, but I do know they are big injectors ordered from USA and specced for a 5.0l ford v8. Did seem a bit big, but it was for college so had to run with my calculations.

Where did you mount your coolant temp sensors , my original one was incompatible, so, I tapped the original sensor out into a kinda adaptor, so the ECU gets the temp of the water in the head. As a result my temp gauge in the dash doesn't work.

Ill have to go mess around with it again, then bring it to westward. Although the shell does need tlc!

SC components do a thermostat housing with a hole for the temp sensor.
In your case I would keep the max ignition advance at about 30 degrees to be save. Mine runs at 11:1 compression ratio and I run at 32 without knock. At idle I run 4 degrees to pass emissions. I can send you my map if you like. Engine spec is 1293 re13 cam 1.5 rockers. The cam is about 274 degrees dialled in at 103.

Right an update.

Just can't leave it be. Have that famous rattle at idle, which disappears when I sink the clutch.
So out withe the engine to sort out the idler gear bearing.
While I have it out I cut a big hole into the side inner arch for extra cooling.
As am gonna put back in a side mounted rad. That way u can run a 7 port elder head which I ordered.
Can't wait to see if it will make as much power as they claim.

Here are some pics





And while I was grinding off the edges this happened.



******* sore but one can't stop now.

Just rolling back the edge to give the panel some strength.

Does any one know where I can a sheet of grille mesh in stainless steel.

Cheers fellow mini fans.

I always use the mesh that u use when plasting a house ask a builder they mite have bits living round

Molly is that stuff out of stainless steel?

I think it comes in stainless or galvanised, Expamet or expanded metal lath

Im not sure but it doesn't rust

Cheers guys off to the builders I go.

Bargain of the century 6 euro for a sheet 8 *2 of this stuff.

Seen the mesh for car grilles for like 30 what a rip off.

Thanks guys.

Hi Fellow Mini fans

i am selling some items from this build as i'm changing my setup to a 7 port head.
see the for sale section as well.

Maniflow intake manifold with
Jenvey 45 throttle body and trumpets with K&N air filter
Injectors not included



330 Euro

Cylinder head with porting done by myself.
Spec is 21EN hardend Stainless steel valves 35.7 inlet 29.5 outlet.
220lb double valve springs.
3 Angle valve seats on Inlets and exhausts.
This head was used for about 2000 miles only without any sign of trouble.


340 Euro

Pickup only as postage for items would be ridiculous.


Gave 89.4 HP on rolling road with standard 1.3 rockers and a RE13OT cam from CalverST in uk (Engine Size 1293cc AE Hepolite pistons). Have graph from rolling road to proof it.

Thanks for looking.

After a long wait the new 7 port head has arrived.
Post apparently lost it and once i started asking questions the head arrived 2 days later. Typical.
Anyways here are some pics of the Ken Elder head:

thats one straight shot to the back of the valve.

different shape then the usual heart shape. The valves are further apart then normal.

The head is about 18mm thicker then a standard 5 port head. just as well they supply new head studs.

Head of to machine shop to get some additional holes drilled and tabbed for sensors and cooland takeoff for heater etc.

might have it running by this weekend.

The new head looks good.

Let us know how you get on with getting it up and running

Right an update

The head is back from engineering shop have second hole drilled and tapped for ecu coolant sensor.
Drilled and tapped the coolant takeoff in the front for some fancy an8 fitting.
Head is on the block and as I went to torque it down I realised that the rocker posts will need spacers. Looks like I'll be waiting another while now as I have non and it's nearly cheaper buying them then making them.
Pics to follow soon.
The intake with injection bodies and trumpets are damn close to the bonnet too. Must figure out how I will get an air filter in there without cutting the bonnet.

What do other people do with 7 ports I wonder.

Hi again.

Just wondering does anyone know a decent aluminium welder in the mayo region that's reliable. The crowd I normally go to is too busy and keeps putting my jobs at the end if the list.

If you are willing to travel JOMO engineering in Kilucan outside Mullingar,really sound car nut as well.

Short update

Have the ken elder head on and the injection throttle bodies installed.


The lot just fits under round nose bonnet but the bonnet catch and spring lock pin are in the way.
By the time I have the air filter on that it's gonna be tight. Locks like I'll be needing one of those fiberglass bonnets too.

oooow, that does look nice!

Right an update. Made another air box from fiberglass using the lost foam method.
Here's some pics



And roughly in situ



Super tight fit.
Fiberglass bonnet will need modifying too.

More later

Right ditched the idea of that air box and went and bought a k&n one as I would have to mod the bonnet anyways


Here is the start of the bonnet.




Might have the bonnet finished this weekend.

Don't know how I'm going to keep it closed yet though

coolmini wrote:Might have the bonnet finished this weekend.

Don't know how I'm going to keep it closed yet though

Duct tape and cable ties!

you could try some Aerocatch panel fasteners, like these - http://www.murraymotorsport.ie/products ... -plusflush

personally I'd stay away from the spring hook set up, the bonnet will make the mini look like it's trying to eat the car infront at any speed and will have your heart in your mouth as to whether it might just fly open on you (speaking from personal experience)

Cheers but they won't fit as the box section is too wide. I have some here and dough. Homer moment. Have some dezus fasteners too but I hate the whole alignment part of them. Any other ideas ? Was thinking of the bonnet belt type straps. Are they any good?

have to say have loved the enginering up to this point but this bonnet is not looking good. 8 port heads have been around a long time without big bonnet bulges, work on it