Irish Mini Owners Club

If you read back through the thread you would see that I am using an MPi tank and MPi flow and return lines mounted with MPi brackets.I have not got it yet but I will be using Mini Spares RH tank kit designed for use with MPi minis.The plan is also to fit an inertia switch on the fuel pump relay when I get it running but if it is safety I am worried about maybe I should head over to Bill Cullen and get myself a Megane.

I was asking because MPI tanks are a rip and you may be able to get away with two normal tanks and use the R/H one as the return.
Also I dont think your worried about safety but Im sure your getting a engineers report done for the insurance

If you don't mind me asking how much roughly did it cost to get the sub frame powder coated?

€60 with Dundalk Fabrication
http://www.dundalkfab.ie/index.html

€60! excellent, I guessed it would be twice that, might have to look at getting my own done, instead of spraying them.

Thanks!

I hooked up the engine to the ECU and started getting the engine ready to run.

AND GOT IT RUNNING about two weeks ago.
So straight away I took out the engine for cleaning.
Before.



After



I also modified the engine loom to get all the plugs inside the bulkhead grommet.

yummy

The Swift had a speed sensor built into the back of the speedo so I needed to modify that to fit a Mini clock.This is what it started out like.

It has a metal disc at the back and I got the end of a Mini speedo cable and cut the inner end off it.I splayed out the end and using epoxy resin I attached it to the disc.I left it a little longer than I needed so that the flexible cable might take out any vibration if it is not 100% centre.Not sure if it will last but time will tell.

I trimmed the sensor to tidy it up and I made up two brackets and attached it to the back of the Mini clock which I will have to get recalibrated when it is running.By doing this it also means I can use the Swift speedo cable.

I also made up brackets to mount the ECU up under the dash.This location takes into account fresh air ducting and wiring and allows the loom to come in through the bulkhead in the right position.

As the fresh air vent was blocked at the drivers side I needed to get air to the heater from the passenger side so I am using a rain water fitting and a small piece of down pipe to duct the air to the heater.I will cut the fitting to fit a normal Mini bulkhead fitting but for now this will give you an idea of what I am trying to do.

All nice and shiney-I'm very impressed!

MTM2012 eagerly anticipates seeing it at the start (and finish) line........


Tony

cant wait to see this in metal aidan, hopefull we can find a closed road and put 16v suzuki against 16v nissan,

I stripped out the front wiring loom and took off the front subframe and sent the Mini off to get the engine bay and inner wings sprayed as they had a few scrapes from trial fitting the engine.Once I got it back I put the loom back in and taped it up.I made P clips from Glavoband and used heat shrink over them.I also put edge protector on the inner wings where I cut them to finish them off.

I am also going to put the clutch on a hydraulic system as the cable puts alot of pressure on the parcel shelf even with the strengthening so I put the hydro line along the engine bay under the cross member.

I will fit the subframe over the weekend and maybe get the engine back in.I am also waiting for two very expensive boxes from Merlin Motorsport and OBP with parts to finish off the clutch and brake piping.

Any progress with this Aidan?

Yes,working away on it but have not posted photos,expect an update over the weekend.

Good man Aidan, class work.

Hope all is well in The Rock

Jimmy D

Since I decided to go with a hydro clutch I needed to make up a bracket to take the three reservoirs so I took a piece of flat mild steel and bent it so it would be level when bolted to the bulkhead.A bit of measuring and a lick of paint and the bracket was finished.In the bottom of the picture is a piece of rubber that will act as a grommet for the three flexi pipes and the accelerator cable as they pass through the bulkhead.

Here is the finished item plumbed up and the pipes going through the rubber grommet.I also needed to bend the brake pipes that connect onto the bulkhead fittings to allow clearance for the air filter.Another case of fixing one problem and causing another.

Here is the pedal box with all the pipes connected.I will set up the bias bar once I get the system bled.

I mounted the coil on the bulkhead gusset plate and I drilled a hole in the bulkhead to route the wires for this to the ecu inside the cabin.

Awesomes


Looks fantastic Aidan, really cant wait to see it when its all done

did i see a bit of rust there in the fifth photo? ah no, i was mistaken.

Just logged on for the first time in YONKS lads. Aidan, looking amazing - well done.

Conor

I started work on the dash of the GTi and firstly I needed to make a clock pod so I started out with some flat steel which was cut to size and then I drilled 3 holes using a hole saw.




I then welded on sides and welded 5mm threaded bar to the inside to hold the clocks in place.




I then made up a cover in vinyl and mounted 2 green LEDs for the indicators and 1 red LED for the engine check light which is wired to thee ECU.

I then made up a template from cardboard and cut some aluminium so size to make the main part of the dash.The plate on the LHS of the dash is where the oher part of the dash will overlap this and bolt onto the brackets I have already welded to the upper and lower dash rails.


Again this was covered in vinyl when I was sure the dash would fit.


Here it is in place.


I have also finished putting everything into the engine bay.As you can see the expansion tank and washer bottle are on the inner wing and I cut some sound deadening to fit the bulkhead.

As I had abandoned the cable clutch I decided to use a Mini slave cyclinder to operate the clutch.I made up a plate and welded two 10mm nuts underneath because when it is in place there is no room for getting at nuts and I drilled two holes to line up with the holes on the gearbox casing.


I then modified the original clutch arm so that I could use the Mini clutch pin so push the arm and welded a piece on top with holes for the return spring as well.


I made up my own clutch pipe with fittings I ordered from Merlin Motorsport and bolted the slave cyclinder in place.I bled the system and while I can feel a nice pedal until I start the engine I will not know it I need to adjust it but time will tell.I may also have to alter the angle at which the slave

Very impressive.

Looking good Aidan, I feel a trackday commin on

You put us to shame Aidan,very nice work. The engine install looks almost factory

How much u want for when its finished