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Correct knuckle joint....
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Correct knuckle joint....
Hi guys,
I replaced my knuckle joints in the suspension for my last NCT. I bought the replacements from minispares. It turns out there are two different versions. The original spec ones,GSV1118MS, or the later ones, GSV1264, that have a taller height in it for a revised suspension design post 1990, i.e. the following spacer built in: 21A1845
Original spec:
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 1A530.aspx
Washer:
http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/21A1845.aspx
New spec (height including washer):
http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/GSV1264.aspx
Now, my mini is a 91 city so one would assume I should be the later type (with washer built in). However, if you click on the link aboulve for revised ones it's says it's for minis 1990 on but have 1275 fitted but mine is a 998....! So what's the right answer?!?
So! I bought original spec and washer so all bases were covered. I took out trumpets and (hammered) out knuckle joint. From what I could see, the original spec matched the ones I took out (i.e. height looked exactly the same so no need for washer). However now at full lock and sometimes not even on full lock the wheels catch on the standard arches where they hadn't before even though it seems like I replaced knuckle joint like for like with what was there. Every time I hear the rubbing I die a little inside
The question is: should I fit the washer to the original spec kunckle joint for my 91 city even though it's not a 1275?!?
Thanks,
Mike
I replaced my knuckle joints in the suspension for my last NCT. I bought the replacements from minispares. It turns out there are two different versions. The original spec ones,GSV1118MS, or the later ones, GSV1264, that have a taller height in it for a revised suspension design post 1990, i.e. the following spacer built in: 21A1845
Original spec:
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 1A530.aspx
Washer:
http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/21A1845.aspx
New spec (height including washer):
http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/GSV1264.aspx
Now, my mini is a 91 city so one would assume I should be the later type (with washer built in). However, if you click on the link aboulve for revised ones it's says it's for minis 1990 on but have 1275 fitted but mine is a 998....! So what's the right answer?!?
So! I bought original spec and washer so all bases were covered. I took out trumpets and (hammered) out knuckle joint. From what I could see, the original spec matched the ones I took out (i.e. height looked exactly the same so no need for washer). However now at full lock and sometimes not even on full lock the wheels catch on the standard arches where they hadn't before even though it seems like I replaced knuckle joint like for like with what was there. Every time I hear the rubbing I die a little inside
The question is: should I fit the washer to the original spec kunckle joint for my 91 city even though it's not a 1275?!?
Thanks,
Mike
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Re: Correct knuckle joint....
I wonder if the problem is in the rubber cone or tie bar bushing rather than the knuckle at this point.
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Re: Correct knuckle joint....
I am not aware of any suspension differences between 998 and 1275 and I don't think the weight difference in the two engines would warrant any change so I would think if your running 12" it should be the latter. You are assuming it wasn't replaced before, do you know the full history of the car and whats the mileage. Did you compare it with the opposite side. I would agree with above ,check the cones. I presume you have not fitted Hi-Los.
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Re: Correct knuckle joint....
Thanks guys. Don't know history of the car too well so it could have been changed before to the the wrong one. It just seems odd that it wasn't rubbing but is now. I bought the spacers so I'll take out kunckles again and fit them. I checked with other side as I replaced both and they were both the same. Mileage is 70k I think. Just seems odd to have started rubbing.
I'm not running high lows but I might replace the doughnuts. When I took out trumpets to do the knuckles , the doughnuts looked fine but I've since seen pictures of new ones and mine are flatter alright...! Might explain the bumpy ride or maybe that's just what minis are like!
Thanks for the help!
I'm not running high lows but I might replace the doughnuts. When I took out trumpets to do the knuckles , the doughnuts looked fine but I've since seen pictures of new ones and mine are flatter alright...! Might explain the bumpy ride or maybe that's just what minis are like!
Thanks for the help!
- The Marcos Graveyard
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Re: Correct knuckle joint....
Brand new cones are much more domed when you get them and the will raise the suspension somewhat. This will settle down as the cones bed in so to speak. Some of the guys on here have fitted the Moulton Smooth-a-Ride system, perhaps one of them can share their opinions on that for you.
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Re: Correct knuckle joint....
I was impressed with the Smooth-a-Ride system supplied by Mini Sport when trying out ZakGT's and Darran's Mpi's (13 and 12 inch set-ups) in terms of driving comfort as basically the cones are much thicker so there's more rubber absorbing road bumps. I fitted it to my own '98 on 12s and while it was more comfortable, you lose out on handling. When I did up my Clubby a few years ago, I went back to standard new cones which I think are nearly as good in terms and comfort and certainly sharper on handling. Don't forget that cones has a life. Over time the rubber compresses and hardens so you lose the damping effect.
My tuppenceworth,
Billy
My tuppenceworth,
Billy
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Re: Correct knuckle joint....
Thanks guys. Cones are a good age I think. I'm pretty sure they were a fair bit more compressed than a new one, I'll have to look for a picture. Think I'll put in the washer in the short term so the knuckle joints have the correct height. I'll buy some new cones too, add them to the list. Already bought a fair few bits to get it NCT ready last year but still have a decent list of stuff to buy haha
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