Subframe Restoration Rough Prices

[bevan]

Could anyone give me a rough guideline on what a proper rebuild would likely cost for front and rear subframes, assuming the original frame is solid and re useable. I would like to hear what peoples opinions are on the route to take given that I want the car to be solid and reliable but budget is an issue with a lot of bodywork to pay for, when the car is down to the shell am I best dig deep for the extra money and take it to the bare shell for floor painting etc, or would painting the underside in a year or so's time be a false economy in terms of both time and money.

For the Frames I am guessing about 120 each for powdercoating if i remove them, steam wash, and knock most of the loose dirt off just leaving blasting and coating

I have a HI lo Kit I bought years ago and didn't use, but it's a cheap ebay kit am I best buy again and go for "genuine" http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/HILO-SET.aspx

I am thinking of buying this Bolt and mount kit from Mini spares http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/MS43.aspx

Is it best to replace trunions as well with this kit http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... |Back%20to

Or are better kits available?

Hoping the spindles and needle bearings are ok in the radius arms if not would 120 cover the rebuild kit and pressing on both sides?
After that what would I budget for brake lines, rear compensator valve and clips to route piping etc.

Also is it better to buy new cones or chance the old ones I know it depends on how they split from the trumpets but I would like to have all parts together in one go.

For the front I don't honestly know what to budget. The car drives fine as is so I don't think I will need new arms etc but fresh rubber would be no harm, I would rather not start splitting the hubs at this stage, I don't mind new backing plates and discs and pads or track rod ends etc

All advice welcomed

[The Marcos Graveyard]

I wouldnt bother with powdercoating the subframes unless you are going for a show car, a few coats of Chassis Black are just as good and effective in my opinion.

Your aftermarket hi-lo kit will do fine, it will do exactly the same thing as a brand new MiniSpares kit.

The bolt kit is a bit of overkill, new nuts/bolts are cheap if you do really need to replace them, all this is underneath the car so it isn't going to stay clean and shiny for long anyway. A good wire brush on a bench grinder will clean up any bolt.

Trunions are just metal blocks, unless the bolts weld themselves to them with rust then a de-rust/prime/paint is all they will need.

I recondition rear radius arms for €35 each if you supply the kit, (I use all the genuine tools/reamers/guides etc.)

Break hoses you can get the standard rubber ones or the braided hoses, personal choice really.
I'd buy a roll of break tubing and borrow a flairing kit from someone and make my own lines.

Rubber cones, you wont really know how bad your own ones are until you remove them, if replacing you might want to consider the Smooth-A-Ride kit by Moulton for Mini Sport, a few guys on here have fitted them and seem to like the improvements.

Definitely fit new knuckle joints and nylon cups.

If you are going to fit/restore the back plates then you are going to have to split the rear hubs.


If you are interested, Mini Sport do do a brand new fully assembled rear subframe ready to fit for a mere €1930 not including delivery!!!!

[bevan]

I will just order the new built up frame so save the hassle lol.

I wont want it anywhere like show car so chassis black is fine i just thought for long life maybe powder but I was looking last night at the bilthammer epoxy paint it looks pretty decent.

I wanted to have the engine bay painted so will need to take out the engine but I might leave the rear in for a winter project.

[The Marcos Graveyard]

That's why I always keep a spare hanging around somewhere in the garage

[pump101]

This stuff is great for subframes and undersides its tough as nails. http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust ... nt/c28117/

Its available feom Millers Oils ireland they often advertise on done deal.

[bevan]

Thanks a million for the replies. I actually was thinking of that exact product I always use millers or motul oils my own car is an impreza so its fussy on oil. I spotted this the last day I was in with Peter they have a showroom in Wexford.

Would anyone advise using this on the inside of the replaced panels as well?

I was going to pump in cavity wax at some point into the sills and anywhere I can but I would like to rustproof as much as possible when the shell is bare.

[keith]

i bought a replacement bare subframe locally, over the black finish I painted it first with read-lead then some thick green "trawler-grade" top coat, including pouring paint into the cavities and swirling it around to cover, let it dry a week, then pumped & sprayed waxoyl (the pale stuff!) into everywhere.

I considered filling all the cavities and puddle points with flexible mastic/foam to coat & prevent water/mud collecting - maybe the next time.

18 months on it still looks good

[bevan]

I have two other shells I think I might strip down the one with the best subframes and do as you said, coat heavily in the epoxy mastic paint after using rust converter and acid etch.

I was wondering about the inner sills when the panel is welded up I know you could coat them in weld through primer but I am a bit paranoid about it rotting from the inside out in years to come would it be better to paint them in expoxy pre welding and then pump in wax at a later stage.

As the front wings and front panel are off I have a replacement scuttle for the extra money I think I might ask to have the original scuttle removed to check nothing un toward is hidden behind