998cc Engine Dismantle and Rebuild

[Scoobasteve7]

Hi forum

Well as the title suggests I've decided to try my hand at a 998cc engine rebuild.
I got this as a seized engine as part of another project I bought a while back so figure it would be worthwhile to learn soemthing new as I go.

So this thread will hopefully help me (and possibly others) learn and remember in the future if I decide to do one again as well as try and keep an eye on the progress.

Heres some pictures of the engine.
(There was no dizzy with the engine so I have my own rebuilt one put into it.)





Firstly, I removed the rocker cover. This is the first time I've seen a seized rocker shaft.



Removed the clutch cover to reveal yet more extremely rusty parts.





On the plus side here, I learned that due to the type of clutch fitted to it that it is a pre verto engine according to the Haynes manual.

Then I removed the rest of the ancilliaries from the front of the engine.



I removed the clutch and got as far as the flyhweel retaining bolt. Unfortunately, I don't currently have a socket big enough to fit. (My largest is a 33mm but for the flywheel bolt I must get a 1-1/2 inch one so a trip to a motor factors/halfords will be made shortly.



I then started down from the top of the engine.



The bolts from the rocker shaft came out easily enough with some WD40 and a breaker bar.

Following that, I took out the shaft as a sub assembly and the rest of the studs.



As I was advised to label everything and take lots of pictures, I have done. I have also laid out the top section components from the engine as per cylinder number from 1 to 4, 1 being the one closest to the timing chain/fan belt side. (thanks to the people here for teaching me that too! )



I removed the timing chain cover too. Fortunately at least there was some oil left on this! The engine had to have a bit of oil somewhere I guess!



Thats currently as far as I have got with the dismantling.

My next steps will be to get a valve spring compressor, a piston ring remover and the 1 1/2 inch socket to get further.

I'm hoping to try as much of the work as I can myself but I know there will be parts of the engine that have to be sent away to be machined properly and safely.

I want to rebuild this engine to as close to standard as possible with maybe a little increase in performance. I don't want to pour big money into it as this is just a learning exercise but with the hope to use it in a future classic I will be restoring with reliability being more important.

Any advice, tips, tricks, areas of care people feel like sharing would be more than welcome.

I know the different processes of cleaning an engine but if anyone would like to shed light on the best approach for each piece that would be brilliant too.

I'm also looking for what is best to replace/reuse in a rebuild of this nature.

Look forward to sharing this with you all.
Thanks forum,

Stephen

[Billy]

Fair play Stephen,

No better way to learn then to get stuck in. Keep us posted.

Billy

[Kenneth Murphy]

Fair play Steve! is that the engine that came from my shell?

[Scoobasteve7]

Thanks guys. Sure no better way than to get stuck in sure!


No Ken, I got no engine or front subframe with that shell. I bought another one since and your man had two engines going with it so I said I'd take both.

Could be using the gearbox and crankshaft you gave me alright at some point but we will see sure!

Trip to Halfords on the cards tomorrow but must take out some rear shocks from an Impreza I'm breaking for a lad first.

Thursday I hope to have the engine in the red yoke back in and the brakes bled.

Friday is engine day!

Weekend then myself and the missus are heading over to see Man Utd V Southhampton. (Her birthday present...she a massive United fan so naturally I support whoever they play! )

Then starting my new job Monday so it'll be nice to come home and escape to the garage knowing some new project funds are on the way!

Will post an update next week all going well with some fancy pictures for ye of the rest of the inside of the 'slightly' rusted engine!

[kerryminigringo]

Great way to learn,is the engine seized or can it be turned over?

[woody]

Good work so far and it is the best way to learn. When your getting the 1.5" socket get a deep one and you can use it for the ball joints as well.
You will need a flywheel puller and make sure you get one that does both verto and non verto as they have different threads in the flywheel.
Take note of the engine number as it will give you details of the engine spec.

[Scoobasteve7]

quote="kerryminigringo"]Great way to learn,is the engine seized or can it be turned over?[/quote]

Oh it's most definitely seized. Tried turning it over and it didnt even budge. considering also that there was only water came out of it when I flipped it upside down isn't helping the situation either.

[quote="woody"]Good work so far and it is the best way to learn. When your getting the 1.5" socket get a deep one and you can use it for the ball joints as well.
You will need a flywheel puller and make sure you get one that does both verto and non verto as they have different threads in the flywheel.
Take note of the engine number as it will give you details of the engine spec.[/quote

Thanks Woody. Got a deep one as you can see in the pic below. I had already bought the flywheel puller but it says verto and pre verto on it. Also there are two different sets of bolts came with it so I think its the right one.

Ah, the engine number is buried under a lump of grime and is also extremely rusted. I'll do my best to try and make it out once I can clean it some bit.



Small update on this.

Firstly, a few new parts to assist me.



I was looking at the section these were in today and noticed there was a gear puller too. Will I need one of these for this rebuild?

So next step I took off the flywheel retaining bolt with the new 1 and a half inch socket. Came off quite easily.

Then decided to continue at that side with the flywheel puller.



I set it up in the way that appeared to be right. Once the external three bolts were tightened, the middle one would increase the force and push the flywheel off the taper....or so I thought.



As you can see here the top left bolt ATE THROUGH the puller!





This bolt should not be free right now...



So after finding some spring washers I put them on the bolts to give them a bigger CSA and hopefully stop them cutting through the puller.

It seemed to work and was holding well. The haynes manual said to put a screwdriver into the teeth of the flywheel to stop it spinning. Obviously, this would be for a flywheel that wasn't welded into place with rust so no screwdriver necessary.

I put on the socket and breaker bar onto the flywheel puller and tightened and tightened. MY issue was that the whole engine decided to turn with it rather than just the bolt. In the end, I was dividing my weight and strength between the breaker bar and engine but didn't have enough strength to move the pulled any futher. I even tried rotating the engine down onto different parts of its housing to see if I could stop it turning. Nope.

I've ordered a big ginger weight tomorrow so hopefully with him holding/sitting on the engine and me fully on the breaker bar the flywheel will hopefully pop free.

I've also sprayed wd40 onto the taper section three times today so hopefully that will help too. I also tried as they suggested in the haynes manual tapping the centre puller nut with a medium hammer. Still nothing.

So looks like today the engine has me beat.

Will keep ye updated.

Thanks.

[woody]

Welcome to the big bad world of pulling flywheels
I always put thick washers on the puller.
Did you remove the locking washer between the fkywheel and crank? you wouldn't be the first not to.
There is a flywheel locking tool available or if you have a welder you can make one up yourself.
Make sure the three bolts are in the same distance and the puller is square on the flywheel.

[Scoobasteve7]

Ha, thanks Woody.

Think I'll have to invest in shares in Weetabix or something!
Yeah, I'll be putting washers on it from now on too.
I did remove the locking washer alright. It came off just after the retaining nut.

Might make one up alright. But this one still isnt rotating yet.

[denisg1973]

had same issue last week , had put washers on bolts and with pressure on big nut I gave centre of fly wheel a bit of heat with a gas torch flew off , then

[Scoobasteve7]

I sprayed more WD40 into the middle and greased the taper.
Got my friend to hold the engine and jumped on the breaker bar.

Managed to get the washer through the gap that the first bolt had made!!
Might try welding it next week.

Thanks for that Denisg1973. That could be a handy solution to getting it off alright.

[Scoobasteve7]

Small update on this.

Firstly, took the head off this evening. I used a wooden block and a hammer to tap it up gently. After a while it came loose. There is some amount of dirt and gunk on top of the pistons! A good chunk of it is a yellowy gel like substance. I think it's fuel after solidifying.



Then one of my friends called down. He works in a local co op so I asked him to get me a blowtorch and gas. I heated the centre of the flywheel and hammered it and used the puller again to no avail. .

Later another one of the lads arrived on. Between the three of us, one heating the centre and keeping pressure on the flywheel, one holding the rest of the engine steady and one tapping the flywheel with a wooden block Finally success!!



The plate behind the flywheel was badly rusted and wouldn't free easily. I already knew it would need a new clutch so we just cracked it off.





There's going to be some amount fo cleaning to do with this engine.




That's currently where I'm at now with it. Next steps will be to remove the fan, timing chain, valve springs and at the very least clean the top so I can actually see the top of the pistons!

[joebe1]

Great work lad, that engine defo looks like it needs some love. You ll have to put ur flywheel back on to loosen ur timing chain nut however, it ll be easier to get it off again though. Set no 1 piston to tdc with the dots lining up on the timing gear, it ll give you the understanding of how it goes bac together.