Dont Buy Minispares Engine Mounts

[kona]

I have no idea what their standard mounts are like, but I went for the Captive Nuts, as I though it would make fitting the bolts around back of the rad and flywheel housinghandy. It was handy for the Rad side, far from for the Flywheel side.
I wasted the whole day today fitting these poxy things. I understand that its a pig of a job, but it just shouldnt take a whole day to fit two mounts.
My main gripe with them is that they seem to be just badly made, and seem to be too big. The captive nuts are just pressed in, and they are made of cheese. Even out of the box, I could see the nuts were pressed in arseways, a chimp with a hammer would have done a similar job. From past experience, very unlike minispares.
The amount of levering with the screwdriver, as you need to do to get the holes aligned, completley destroyed the threads on the nuts, so I ended up just fitting them the normal way after beating out the captive nut(Not easy from under the car with a flywheel and subframe in the way).

But long story short, dont buy these. Ignore the MS advice on the genuine mounts and buy them, I know the next time what Ill choose. Maybe this can save somebody they total pain in the arse these things gove.


Also is there anyway of fixing the lower engine steady mount on the subframe? mine snapped? My upper engine steady is cracking the joint at the bulkhead too. I was think of fitting the lower engine steady That mounts at the rad side to the rear. No idea what to do with the upper mount.

[The Marcos Graveyard]

There is a rear steadies available, they were to Minis as standard to certain models in the early 70's.

[DaveC]

On my two Minis the bracket at the bulkhead for the upper engine steady has needed work.

It went completely on one car and I got it welded back on

On my GT it must have gone before I bought because it looks like someone cut it off and bolted on a heavy angle section through the bulkhead and redrilled the hole for the bolt for the engine steady

[apple jack]

Depending on the year there are various lower engine steadies available,some are on the right hand side pointing forward another pointing to the rear .There is also one for the left side pointing to the rear all of these are standard brackets available from dare I say it mini spares and others . Coming from autotesting I would suggest fitting an engine steady on both sides on the bottom and since you say the top one is cracking there is one available for the thermostat housing to the bulkhead . It may seem a bit OTT but if the engine rocks too much its not good for exhaust systems .I hope this is some help , good luck .

I have no idea what their standard mounts are like, but I went for the Captive Nuts, as I though it would make fitting the bolts around back of the rad and flywheel housinghandy. It was handy for the Rad side, far from for the Flywheel side.
I wasted the whole day today fitting these poxy things. I understand that its a pig of a job, but it just shouldnt take a whole day to fit two mounts.
My main gripe with them is that they seem to be just badly made, and seem to be too big. The captive nuts are just pressed in, and they are made of cheese. Even out of the box, I could see the nuts were pressed in arseways, a chimp with a hammer would have done a similar job. From past experience, very unlike minispares.
The amount of levering with the screwdriver, as you need to do to get the holes aligned, completley destroyed the threads on the nuts, so I ended up just fitting them the normal way after beating out the captive nut(Not easy from under the car with a flywheel and subframe in the way).

But long story short, dont buy these. Ignore the MS advice on the genuine mounts and buy them, I know the next time what Ill choose. Maybe this can save somebody they total pain in the arse these things gove.


Also is there anyway of fixing the lower engine steady mount on the subframe? mine snapped? My upper engine steady is cracking the joint at the bulkhead too. I was think of fitting the lower engine steady That mounts at the rad side to the rear. No idea what to do with the upper mount.

[woody]

You will need to weld the bulkhead bracket and/or fit a left hand steady on the thermostate even if you fit an extra lower mount.

[kona]

You will need to weld the bulkhead bracket and/or fit a left hand steady on the thermostate even if you fit an extra lower mount.

The ultimate engine steady wont fit as I have a Sandwich plate fitted where the thermostat is, well what I can gather I'd have to "modify" it to fit. Im not paying £30 for something that wont fit properly.
I ordered a new L/H steady, I think the upper steady has given up, as the engine is moving far to much. DOnt want my new mounts gone in a week
Maybe a full engine balance mite help things LOL

[The Marcos Graveyard]

There is an adjustable engine mount that fits to the water pump rather than the thermostat housing.

[kona]

Oh that would make life better, Im getting quite handy at getting the bottom hose and the rad out at this stage .

Do you know what company sells these? I didnt see and on minispares.

[keith]

Maybe a full engine balance mite help things LOL

every kg. of torque going through the wheels also pushes against the suspension and engine mounts as the engine tries to rip itself out of the car and take off down the road. 8mm of rubber bonded to steel tries to stop that. *now* drop the clutch....!

[kona]

Maybe a full engine balance mite help things LOL

every kg. of torque going through the wheels also pushes against the suspension and engine mounts as the engine tries to rip itself out of the car and take off down the road. 8mm of rubber bonded to steel tries to stop that. *now* drop the clutch....!

Soon to be 8mm of bonded rubber and 3 steadys. The balance would help stop the shaking at low rpm?? Also allow me to rev the nuts off it

Oh the minisport upper steady poly bushes are crap too, the metal sleeve sits very loose in the bush and causes movement. bit of tape sorted that.

[keith]

there is a bit of satisfaction to be had from improving things.... or coming up with new fixes? im going to try using a *very* strong magnet to hold the nuts in place while i bolt up the engine mounts. *very* strong magnets can be found inside 3.5" computer hard disks. no, really: you will need pliers to pull them appart.

[The Marcos Graveyard]

Just buy a cheep spanner , bend it to suit and hold the nut in place with a bit of tape. works for me.

[kerryminigringo]

Or take the engine mount to someone with a welder and tack the nut on.5 minute job at the most.

[kona]

I got the nuts on twice now by using a needle nose pliers to hold the nut, its fiddly, but suprisingly doesnt take long. I can get a Halfords 1/2 spanner on the nut then to get a proper hold on it when im torquing up.

By far the worst bolt to get at is that one one the bottom of the flywheel cover, that was put there by the devil.

[kona]

there is a bit of satisfaction to be had from improving things.... or coming up with new fixes? im going to try using a *very* strong magnet to hold the nuts in place while i bolt up the engine mounts. *very* strong magnets can be found inside 3.5" computer hard disks. no, really: you will need pliers to pull them appart.

Will you just leave the magnet there when done? Magnets are awful handy things. Great idea that.