Still no joy

[sausage_doc]

I've posted earlier in the month about my 98 MPI sport pack and it starting trouble. Have been flat out with work and other thing and it just sat in the shed feeling sorry for itself.

Had great feedback for members last time about what to do and check but no joy. Am going to start at it again tommorrow so need help r ideas. As before i said that the car started to play up on a friday by cutting out and takin 5 minute then restarting again. On saturday it started no problem but was running as if it was off a cylinder and had no power. Same on the sunday. then the monday it started and ran fine for about 2 mile then went off a cylinder for about another mile then cut out. Has not started since.

I have checked the inheria switch and bypass it. I.ve check fuel pump and lines. I'm getting fuel to the injector and no air in the lines. Have checked the wiring loom and have no broken wires to any other the sensors in the car. No fuses have blown and all sensor seem to be within fine. I have put a computor on the car and it has 8 faults.
1. Coolant temp sensor circuit voltage to high.
2. Intake temp sensor circuit voltage to high.
3. Intake temp sensor
4. Amibante air temp sensor short to ground.
5. Amibante air temp sensor
6. Throttle potentimeter short circuit to positive
7. Oil temp sensor circuit voltage to high
8. Oil temp sensor circuit.
Have fitted new intake sensor but this fault doesn't clear. Was wondering if there is a relay that controls all these sensor. And can anyone tell me what the relay box at the top right of the engine controls. I have been thinking it might be the brain???

Any help and ideas would be greatly apprectied. Thanks in advance.

[kona]

Have you checked the Leads? Plugs? Coil Pack?

[woody]

The ecu stores a memory of faults so unless you clear the memory the fault will continue to be displayed. BlackSe7en had a fault that may be the same, when driving the engine would chug like a misfire and sometimes was very hard to start. I found the fault was a broken wire in the loom caused by not replacing worn engine stableizer bushes which allowed the engine to rock back and forth and break the cable. The engine would start roughly then settle to an idle but when you accelerated the engine would move back and break the cable causing it to cut out.If you started the engine and moved the loom just below the clutch mastercylinder it would cut out. I put a splint on it and told him we'd fix it when he cleared his garage, that was 2 years ago!

[The Marcos Graveyard]

To be fair, it is a very full garage.

[sausage_doc]

Have you checked the Leads? Plugs? Coil Pack?

Have checked leads etc. I has a great spark all the time. Even thought it might not be strong enough so got a lead of a coil pack but it was still the same. No joy

The ecu stores a memory of faults so unless you clear the memory the fault will continue to be displayed.

Cleared the faults tonight before i started but as soon as you turn back on the ingition and crack the car over the faults reappear. Have check all the wiring loom took it out of it protective cover and checked all the wires one by one. Everything looks grand and have no broken wires or worn wires. I'm starting to pull my hair out at this stage, car has me lost completey.

Can anyone tell me if you can try a brain from another car in it. Was told it might not work as the immobilise won't let the car start. I thought the immobiliser was on a different circuit (different controll unit) but not sure. Don't want to fork out money on a brain if it not the problem and don't want to try someone else brain incase i fry it and have to buy 2. It would be just my luck for that to happen.

Thanks again for the idea as i have just hit the wall and seem to be going back on myself all the time.

[kona]

Sounds like your going to be a Busy man with the Multimeter tomorrow!!

AFAIK the Immobiliser is in the ECU, so you cant swap them, unless of course you change everything.

After the Leads and Plugs and them being fine, same with the sensors, It sounds like a ECU issue, I'd be making sure that all the connections going into the ECU are spot on, I'd doubt the ECU is fried.


Sure if it comes to it you coud install Megajolt and a carb

99% of the time I find electrical issues with mine(a 91 cooper) are just poor connections.

[pick up man]

Hi the immobiliser control unit is mounted on the bulk head just left of the radio inside the car. It can be bypassed as i have done it on my 96 cooper mpi. I'm a autoelectrician by trade so if you want i can have a look at the car for you. Where are you based.

[Number 8]

have you checked the earth connection for the Engine control module (ECU). I have had cars in the past giving all sorts of mad and weird problems. All so have you checked the tappet settings. If they are to tight there will not be a clearence when the engine gets hot.

Number 8

[sausage_doc]

Hi the immobiliser control unit is mounted on the bulk head just left of the radio inside the car. It can be bypassed

Don't thimk the immobiliser is the problem as the car wouldn't crank over when the immobiliser is on. Can turn it off and on with the key fob. Saying that does it mean i can swop ECU over.

have you checked the earth connection for the Engine control module (ECU)

I have check the earth connections. All the sensors and starting cicuit use the same earth from the ecu i think, correct me if i'm wrong

99% of the time I find electrical issues with mine(a 91 cooper) are just poor connections.

Spent the whole day going over every connection in the car and cleaning them and refitting them. Still have all them same faults in the ECU.

Pulling my hair out at this stage.

[keith]

sometimes the relay pack (mounted on to of the brake servo bracket) gives trouble. its basically 4 relays on a board. I looked at Stans (ok, his is an SPi) and it was corroded/rusty on the pcb. cant remeber off hand but it does power things like the fuel pump and ecu?

[woody]

The MPi has what looks like the same relay box as the SPi.
The thing I was saying before about a broken cable is something you can't see, the copper is broken inside but the insulation is still intact on the outside.
I assume you checked the sensor resistance at the sensors themselves, if you could check them from the ECU plug it would elimiate any broken cables or bad joints.

[sausage_doc]

The MPi has what looks like the same relay box as the SPi.
The thing I was saying before about a broken cable is something you can't see, the copper is broken inside but the insulation is still intact on the outside.
I assume you checked the sensor resistance at the sensors themselves, if you could check them from the ECU plug it would elimiate any broken cables or bad joints.

Never though of it that way. Will have a look tomorrow and try checking the senors that way. cheers.

[sausage_doc]

Well lad, still no joy. Spent the whole day at the car to day. Have a lend of another sportpack to change stuff over. I changed the brain, relay pack, trottle sensor, intake sensor, ambiante sensor and still no joy. I have petrol at the injectors and after crackning the car over a few times the plugs get wet with fuel. Thought the that the spark is not strong enough so change the coil pack and leads and still the same.
At this point i conpletely lost at what to do next. Any ideas

[keith]

are you sure the plug leads are on the right plugs? not having a rotor arm its harder to tell i guess.

[sausage_doc]

they the plugs on the right way. The car started to run bad and the plugs weren't changed around at all. So i think they ok. Can any one give me a pic of the pack and make sure there on the right way round.

[sausage_doc]

Well got the car started today. Changed the spark plugs and air temp sensors. The car starts but will run off a cylinder every so offen. The same as before. Its still not the answer. The plugs i took out had only 1500 miles on them. Still confused.