Irish Mini Owners Club

Change the EUR to €.

Highlite it on the front page of the website.

Here is a link to a site that I look up every now and again, it is for the main Mini specialist in Holand, just click on any of the pictures and it will lead to a pictorial diary of the restoration of that Mini, can't fault it.

http://www.minicentre.nl/Restauraties/main.htm

Why not update the membership form which is downloadable on the club website.

What condition is the car in, do any panels need repairing or replacing, is it running, is an engine rebuild on the cards, do you intend to respray the car, are you looking for a general second car or something that will be concourse ?

Does it race in the change up of each gear or only in some?

I never use any gasket cement, I just use ordinary multipurpose grease, grease both sides of the gasket and torque to the required poundage. Works for either paper or cork gaskets.

The main differences are the A+ has strengthening ribs on the back of the block, a thicker flange at the bottom of the block where it mates up to the gear box. the distributor is held in by a fork rather than the clamp on the A, A+ has Verto clutch fitted, the altenator mount sits more towords the r...

They were modified by Ralph Broad, by adding a fiberglass coupe back to a standard Mini, Broadspeed were originally a racing team in the 60's that compeated in touring cars. Only a few were built, mostly in the UK but some in Austrailia. Here is a link to a brochure scan. http://www.miniplanete.com/...

Not really, check the log book and the chassis number stamped into the bonnet channel.

Lots of Mini's are Cooperised, but does that make them fake?

The Tamiya kits are 1/24 scale although they did do a version of the Rover Mini in 1/12 scale.

It depends on what scale you are looking for and which particular model of Mini, are you looking for a prefesionally built model or and off the shelf one ?

John F. Golden, 3rd in Class, Mini Cooper S.

Oscars are heavy lights and from what I remember when I had them on my first Mini, a chocolate brown Clubman, I had to use lamp steadys, adjustable bars on the tops of the lamps to stop them shaking.

Use relays when fitting, saves on burnt out switches.

it's out of a honda Civic Shuttle 1.6 4WD.

Have you adjusted the throw on the clutch arm ?

Nope.

TBH I think they (the O'C's) only do it to save on petrol. :lol:

[quote="woody"]I bought one of those perfect running 1275cc's before , ran perfectly for about 200 miles and than seezed , IN BIRMINGHAM !![/quote]

Man that was sooooooooooo long ago, I had hair and weighed less then.

16 years later and the AA are still bringing you home, :lol:

When parking on a slope, turn the wheels in to the curb, if handbrake fails the car cant go far.

Retro fit a double cable system from an earlier Mini perhaps ?

That is a very common problem, check that the ducting is clamped tightly at the side of the heater and at the vent, use a jubalee clip if needed, you might get away with a tie-wrap either. Check that the flap in the heater that blocks off the air to the car is closing fully, it may need to be adjust...

Too much vigorous pulling of the handbrake, or the free length not propperly adjusted, it should hold the car on a few clicks of the lever.

Better to get a new matrix than a new old heater. Have you tried something like rad flush in just the matrix, that should get rid of some of the crud, check that the air intake hoses from the drivers wing are free from debris and that the elephant trunking is propperly connected at the front intake....